Engine cut out

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paulski
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best thing to do is process of elimination on electrics,first plug out the green cut out wire from the coil at rear of scoot ,leaving just the green/red and white wires from the stator plate plugged into the coil, try running engine see if any better,if so then problem in wiring to ignition/cutout switch or the switch itself. if no better then remove plug fit plug into the lead/cap and rest it on a metal part of engine ,kick engine over and check that a nice blue spark is jumping across the plug gap and make sure its constant and not intermittent ,if all well then your problem is likely to be fuel related or air supply, try leaving the air elbow off the carb whilst testing , if better with carb rubber off then problem is in air flow restriction, ie air passage under seat blocked?filter dirty?, if none of this works for you then i would put money on it being an intermittent stator plate fault, ive had at least 3 fail on me in the last 3 years,the little black pick-up box is usually the culprit and can be replaced for about 20 quid and a bit of patience and solder, good luck let us no how you get on
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kejj
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Thanks for all the tips folks. Im of for vacation so im bookmarking this link and gonna test it all when I get back and see if it will be any scootering around this season.

Any way to distinguish if it's the stator or the cdi or the regulator?
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Lambretta LiS150 1965 - MBGM RT195 w/MBGM Clubman & Keihin PWK28
Lambretta TV175 1962 - GranTurismo 200 w/MBGM Clubman & Dellorto PHBH 28
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paulski
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regulator is not an issue as only runs power out to lights,but to be sure plug out the yellow wire from stator to reg while testing, as for the cdi substitution is the only test.same for ht lead and cap. but ive never had a cdi fail yet, its usually the stator
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kejj
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Thanks for the tips folks.
After some process of elimination I'm back where I started.

Fuel issue.
Although I did find my top hat being slightly faulty so I changed to the rubber red NGK one instead.

Even though I thoroughly cleaned the tank with various techniques including high pressure air and other tricks it still has plenty of rust inside to clug up most disposable fuel filters and run badly without one.

My thoughts are to simply replace the tank with a new one like this one:
http://bit.ly/dswFfw

Or maybe just go long range and ditch the air box and classic air filter.
Any tips and ideas?
My set up is a GP200 engine with a JETEX SH2/22 Dellorto copy.

Which tank do you people fancy and which filter do I get to have a sufficient airflow?

Never used tank sealant though, is that to difficult or a option? Depends on time it takes versus money cost to just replace.

****** edit *******
Interesting topic on the issue long range:
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... l+AND+tank
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Lambretta LiS150 1965 - MBGM RT195 w/MBGM Clubman & Keihin PWK28
Lambretta TV175 1962 - GranTurismo 200 w/MBGM Clubman & Dellorto PHBH 28
http://tv175.wordpress.com/
paulski
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kejj wrote:Thanks for the tips folks.
After some process of elimination I'm back where I started.

Fuel issue.
Although I did find my top hat being slightly faulty so I changed to the rubber red NGK one instead.

Even though I thoroughly cleaned the tank with various techniques including high pressure air and other tricks it still has plenty of rust inside to clug up most disposable fuel filters and run badly without one.

My thoughts are to simply replace the tank with a new one like this one:
http://bit.ly/dswFfw

Or maybe just go long range and ditch the air box and classic air filter.
Any tips and ideas?
My set up is a GP200 engine with a JETEX SH2/22 Dellorto copy.

Which tank do you people fancy and which filter do I get to have a sufficient airflow?

Never used tank sealant though, is that to difficult or a option? Depends on time it takes versus money cost to just replace.

****** edit *******
Interesting topic on the issue long range:
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic ... l+AND+tank
i would keep your airbox with your setup jetex 22 runs well through airbox, just get a nice rust free indian tank prob new from a reputable dealer wont be that expensive,or take out your existing tank and give it a good clean and treat it with petseal. to clean out the loose rust its best to get the tank and put a handfull of nuts and bolts inside and put the cap on,then shake it about vigourously for a while,then remove nuts and bolts and give it a good flush out with water and detergent and dry it thouroughly,best overnite and away you go with the petseal then.
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kejj
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Yeah I guess so.
On the other hand it's not that I regularly do long distance but mostly that I dislike filling up all the time so a long range 13l tank would be convenient to have.

And my question is, which long range do people here prefer and which air-filter should I replace the box with?
________________________
Lambretta LiS150 1965 - MBGM RT195 w/MBGM Clubman & Keihin PWK28
Lambretta TV175 1962 - GranTurismo 200 w/MBGM Clubman & Dellorto PHBH 28
http://tv175.wordpress.com/
KCB
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Hello,

Have a look at this link, it has some good advice from AF regarding cleaning and petsealing tanks.

Also it says never use an inline filter:

http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=10203

Cheers.
mr series 2
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Just had cutting out and starting problems after changing and checking parts it turned out to be the end of the HT that screws into the CDI unit had burnt back a few mm a new HT lead fitted no more problems its worth checking
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kejj
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Fixed this long ago but didn't have time to write back on the solution.

Eventually I found out that all the electrics were fine and turned back to the fuel problem, seemed that it didn't matter how much I cleaned the tank it was still sending very fine grained rust dust back into the fuel filter and carb. I realized I didn't have time for sealant treatment so I opted for a stainless steel tank in original tank size. cleaned it when I got it to get all the dust off, did the cleaning procedure 4 times to be sure, fitted a fuel filter for the 3 first tank stops and remover the filter after 3 full tanks had been used up.

It all worked perfectly. changed the fuel-tap again to be on the safe side.

The stainless steel tank was a little rough to mount on the scoot since its "ears" are wider, did have to reshape the air box for it to fit correctly.

i now have a spare rusty tank and a fast flow fuel tap for my next restoration :) Just need to get hold of a nice sealant here i Sweden and clean the tap with fuel.

Ohh, I did buy a new jetex carb since it was cheaper than buying spares for the one I had. the new jetex wasn't at all the same quality as my old one. the slide door quickly stuck at full open with the scoot revving to the moon. so I replaced the slide with the one in my old carb and it now works a treat.

In the future, with more time on my hand i will change to a long range tank and add an external airfilter to my jetex, It's already up-jetted for my scootrs exhaust so I hope I wont bee to far off in jet sizes.
________________________
Lambretta LiS150 1965 - MBGM RT195 w/MBGM Clubman & Keihin PWK28
Lambretta TV175 1962 - GranTurismo 200 w/MBGM Clubman & Dellorto PHBH 28
http://tv175.wordpress.com/
psychedelicropcircle
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Any way to distinguish if it's the stator or the cdi or the regulator?[/quote]


Id reccommend a bgm stator with a sil EFW get a spare cdi and regulator as these things are the usual suspects.
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