No Drive after rebuild...

[fsmlittler]

Thanks all for the input.
Problem solved. The brass plunger had some damage and wouldn't seat properly over the cam so that whenever the case was tightened up it was effectively opening the clutch slightly. The give away was bump starting it with no chain case and it had plenty of drive and compression. Five minutes with a Dremel on the plunger and all is well.
Now if only I could work out how to get the rubber boot on the tie bar....

[lambro]

Fit the rubber boot to the selector end of the tie rod BEFORE locating it on the shaft.
Force the boot up the tie rod (it stretches the hole in the boot) and when you have put it on the selector, and placed the circlip, slide the rubber boot back down and all is good.

Glad you sorted the clutch

[10 inch Terror]

Fit the rubber boot to the selector end of the tie rod BEFORE locating it on the shaft.
Force the boot up the tie rod (it stretches the hole in the boot) and when you have put it on the selector, and placed the circlip, slide the rubber boot back down and all is good.

Glad you sorted the clutch

Or cut the 'pip' off the selector arm then drill and tap it then loctite a 6mm stud in it and fit a nylon nut. No more circlips pinging off and losing drive in the middle of nowhere.

[Wee Mark]

.....or if you gotta use the Circlip system fit it and put a tiny blob of loctite on circlip to stop it pinging off, just make sure your linkage still moves!!!

[lakelambrettas]

.....or if you gotta use the Circlip system fit it and put a tiny blob of loctite on circlip to stop it pinging off, just make sure your linkage still moves!!!

Loctite won't work for long (if at all) in this situation.

Denis