bgm ac/dc reg

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rbgaz
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hi running one of these and yesterday wired it up to a battery for charging phone etc now i thought these were just like a trickle charge on the dc but when putting my volt mtr on it it gives out 13.5 volts at tick over so my q is y cant u run lights from this ?
Minority
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rbgaz wrote:hi running one of these and yesterday wired it up to a battery for charging phone etc now i thought these were just like a trickle charge on the dc but when putting my volt mtr on it it gives out 13.5 volts at tick over so my q is y cant u run lights from this ?
The voltage is as it should be for charging (13.5v at tickover shows a good stator and healthy magetism on the flywheel!), however if you were to put an ampmeter (rather than a voltmeter) in series with your dc output input you would find that the current (amps) is quite low, hence the term "trickle" charge.
A 35watt headlamp at 12v is getting on for 3 amps on it's own, add in rear/brake lights another 2 amps so getting up to 5 amps. I'm not sure what current (amps) your system pumps out of the DC, but I'm pretty sure it won't be 5 amps.
rbgaz
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I c thanks , so even running the lights via the battery with the dc charging battery it's not enough amps ? Not very clued up on eletrics
Minority
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rbgaz wrote:I c thanks , so even running the lights via the battery with the dc charging battery it's not enough amps ? Not very clued up on eletrics
I guess the answer to that is maybe :lol:

Depends on the size of the battery, if you're running with lights all the time/some of the time, any other loads (horn, indicators, electronic speedo etc).

From memory the "standard" lambretta battery is about a 5amp/hour battery which means that if you have no charge to the battery it will supply 5amps for 1 hr or there abouts.
You would have to find your total load (amps), how much your trickle charge is and do a bit of simple maths to see how long the battery would last without having to be recharged from an external battery charger.

I use the BGM regulator and have a SIP speedo, dc horn (not used much), dc indicators (only intermittent use) and DC to my BGM led rear lamp (very low current draw). I have'nt had to charge my battery with an external charger yet. My headlamp is still fed of the 12v ac though.
rbgaz
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its a bike battery from halfords dont no the amps untill i take it out to look, my idea was to stop the flicker on lights i run rear brake stop light on a led as park light is as well so i only really useing power for front light so it might work
Minority
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rbgaz wrote:its a bike battery from halfords dont no the amps untill i take it out to look, my idea was to stop the flicker on lights i run rear brake stop light on a led as park light is as well so i only really useing power for front light so it might work
Remember to keep the + from the DC and the AC wiring seperate!!

Of course the best solution is to go full DC with a "Wassel" coversion.
rbgaz
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well ive got a live dc wire going up to headset so was going to pull the live ac wire which powers head lamp and replace with this is this a bad idea ? lol
Swat
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I went down this route at beginnig of the year . running 1980's AF electronic stator/flywheel setup with single yellow output - runs to BGM rectifier - from which I've run (or rather my electrician pal has run) to a 7AH burglar alarm battery sat in normal battery tray. All lights, horn etc run off DC from battery now switched via ignition switch

6 months & about 2500 miles, no problems bright lights, very loud horn, no flat battery issues
rbgaz
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Mmm I think I need a adult to do mine for me
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