long range tank fitting problem...

[servetakid]

Can you undo the straps rotate it a little anti clockwise?

The thread on the tank does look long tho'...

If I were to do that, the fuel tap will be even more in the way of the engine mount. :freak:

Its not a ssp tank or a tsr tank.

[joespeed]

Me again.

Right long range tank fitted, but the petrol tap doesn't clear the engine mount.... I've seen others have had this problem, some have cured it with a reverse exit tap, by filling the threaded part of the tank... Here's a photo what do you think I need to do?

you've already answered your own question here!

[nelson pk]

Me and two mates got the stainless steel version of these tanks and had the same problem.
We cured this the official bodgers way...............
Take the tank out and rest it on something very soft. Get a hammer and something like a big socket extension bar. Tap it just behind where the fuel tap sits. If you do it carefully it moves the tap fitting to the correct place and you dont notice a dent. This is how we done it and no tank leaked after.
Dont blame me if you get too heavy handed with the hammer though!

[servetakid]

I have ordered a tap and will try filling the thread down, as there is quite a bit of excess thread to work with. If this doesn't workk, ill then try bashing it!

Cheers, and ill get a rag in that manifold lol

[Craig H]

I had this problem with a ssp 13L tank and even after fitting rear exit camlam tap. What I did was get some rubber and siliconed it to the bottom rubbers so it raised the tank up about 5-10mm

[corrado]

The tank in question is a Saigon Scooter Centre one.
From the pics it's difficult to assess what part of the tap is the issue, if it's the connector rod or the main body then a rear exit tap isn't going to help.

[davet]

DON'T hit anything with a hammer, especially not a tank. There are two ways around it, fit TS1 engine mount cones, if that doesn't work try the following:

Get petrol tap off tank and strip it down. The plastic filter is threaded so turn it anticlockwise to undo. Next remove the two screws and take out the tap part. Remember the way it came out. Next place the tap in a vice and using a good hacksaw with a 24 teeth or more blade and cut approximately 3mm off the thread. It's much easier to do it to the tap, because you only need to get a tap if you get it wrong, rather than have a tank repaired or binned.

Make sure you cut the thread straight. You can cut an old tank nut in half and use it as a guide. Don't file the end of the thread when you've finished as it needs to fit flat against the tank. You may need to trim the filter thread as well. This can be done with a sharp knife. You could also use the opportunity to shorten the reserve tube on the tap, as it does not need to be so long on a large tank.

Meticulously clean the tap before re-assembly. This method does work well, I and others have done it successfully. I can't take credit for this idea as I got it off J1MS, who is a master of fettling.

[nelson pk]

Yes, corrado is right, all ours were Saigon Scooter centre tanks. The fitting for the tap is rubbish. I did say the hammer thing was the official bodgers way and do so at your own risk! However i have TS1 cones fitted as i run a Monza and it made no difference. I cant see how shortening the thread would have made a huge difference as its the position at where the tap comes out of the tank not the length of the thread thats the problem. If you shorten the thread the tap will still bash the mount when you go over a big bump as your shock compresses.
I could be wrong and i hope you dont have to resort to the bashing trick.
Good luck!

[davet]

Yes, corrado is right, all ours were Saigon Scooter centre tanks. The fitting for the tap is rubbish. I did say the hammer thing was the official bodgers way and do so at your own risk! However i have TS1 cones fitted as i run a Monza and it made no difference. I cant see how shortening the thread would have made a huge difference as its the position at where the tap comes out of the tank not the length of the thread thats the problem. If you shorten the thread the tap will still bash the mount when you go over a big bump as your shock compresses.
I could be wrong and i hope you dont have to resort to the bashing trick.
Good luck!

It's worth a go, before resorting to a hammer!

[servetakid]

After a bit of gentle filling (nothing mega) the tap now clears the mount, there's about 5mm of clearance. I have rocked the scooter on the rear shocker, and there doesn't seem to be any chance of it hitting the mount.