Scooterotica

Devlam wrote:

Monty wrote:

mark wrote:you can go dc without a battery if you want

here we go again..
I run the extra wire plus wassel regulator, full DC with NO battery and have the Agusto 8000 on my Imola
Runs great better spread of power, starts with a tickle on the kickstart
The multi adjustable one may have given more tinkering options but mine set up with no problems after I went down a bit on the pilot on the carb
All for 100 quid

I will most likely add a battery in any case -- what's the advantages/disadvantages of the full DC Wassell etc. system versus installing say a BGM 120W stator and an AC/DC BGM voltage regulator. This system can supposedly run satnavs etc without battery, but has a DC out for charging a battery if installed.

Lot to learn.....

More dumbass questions from me then..

Hey we all ask them..
The original thread was about Veriatronic alternative
This give variable timing as the revs increase
I understand AC output with a DC feed for a battery.
It costs £350 +

The set up above gives full DC with plenty of power so you don't have the dimming lights at tick over or when your break light comes on, Replace your rear light with a multi LED brake light and you will have power to spare. (they work properly on DC, they are dim on AC)
The Agusto or the multi adjustable Chisel speed unit gives you the advance and retard for 60-80 quid
If you are running DC you have the option of adding a battery or not..
If you want to add mobile phone charger, sat nav, Rev counter, digital speedo they will all work on your DC system.
If you have already got a 12V stator you can add the extra wire
If you don't have a a 12V stator the BGM is a good quality stator that does have a bit more output than a standard Indian but its not seem to be 120W as advertised, while you are fitting it add the extra wire, you can put it to ground outside of the stator and go back to standard if you don't like it. The first one I coveted was after buying the BGM 120W and finding as AC it was not much better than what I had, a 60 quid Indian.
So again if you have 12V you can go DC for 30 quid plus a horn
for around a 100 quid you can go DC and have Advance and retard
You keep £250 in your pocket for another dumb ass project
Result

"The first one I coveted was after buying the BGM 120W and finding as AC it was not much better than what I had, a 60 quid Indian."
you are going to have to stop coverting things Monty the wife will kill you

Brilliant, thanks all for help here -- decision made.

you could always have your stator rewound by west country windings to my spec which is all in my thread on reinding stators, this will give you a very high spec stator with a 50%better lt coil and excellent lighting coils enabling you to run spotlights and a 65/55 headlight bulb

When my bike is rebuilt and finished I'll be running with a re-wound Ducati stator, Ducati CDI, Chiselspeed M-Tech unit, LML 5 pin regulator, 10 AH battery & Rev counter. Back light is a bayonet fit LED bulb. What would need adding or changing to be able to run a DC horn?

Ingition switch and horn are AC, but the regulator has a battery charging wire coming off.

Battery is to power rev counter. Was also planning if necessary to put an on/off switch to turn off battery when the engine's off.

The re-wound stator made a noticeable difference...and the properly crimped terminal connectors on the wiring did too.

mawso wrote:When my bike is rebuilt and finished I'll be running with a re-wound Ducati stator, Ducati CDI, Chiselspeed M-Tech unit, LML 5 pin regulator, 10 AH battery & Rev counter. Back light is a bayonet fit LED bulb. What would need adding or changing to be able to run a DC horn?

If fitting a battery, simply change the wire to the horn for one from a DC feed.

mawso wrote:Ingition switch and horn are AC, but the regulator has a battery charging wire coming off.
Battery is to power rev counter. Was also planning if necessary to put an on/off switch to turn off battery when the engine's off.

If the ignition switch is Indian, it is also simple to feed DC to the tail LED (then it will be full brightness) whilst keeping an AC headlight. The on/off switch is a good idea if you wish to use the "C" connector on the reg to control the rate of charge.

firekdp wrote:If the ignition switch is Indian, it is also simple to feed DC to the tail LED (then it will be full brightness) whilst keeping an AC headlight.

Yes it is Indian. The DC ignitions have the extra turn of the key, is that for a parking light? Would I just run a DC wire split off from the battery to the back light then, ignoring the AC loom wires for the back light?

All sounds really good news so far.

A friend has been running the first version of the Variotronic for a few years, he's now planning to remove it. He's never really got on with it and wanted to run a rev counter, Variotronic has some problem here?

He plans to work on something using details and parts mentioned in the threads on here recently to build something that suits him and the bits he wants to add on such as rev counter, timing adjuster, etc.

Thanks for sharing!

mark wrote:you could always have your stator rewound by west country windings to my spec which is all in my thread on reinding stators, this will give you a very high spec stator with a 50%better lt coil and excellent lighting coils enabling you to run spotlights and a 65/55 headlight bulb

Hmmm -- interesting thread. How much would this cost at the mo -- presume I'd need to get a donor stator, I had a points-type stator come off mine.

its £117 inc p+p but you will get the best available stator made by experts, yes you need a electronic stator but there are loads of dead ones out there