Re: GP handlebar control rod slop.
Posted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 2:53 pm
I agree with SB. I use splined rods and weld then at the end of the grip. The splined end onto the pulley and the weld at the other end eliminate the vast majority of the slop (the rod can stil twist along it's length if your gear change is particularly stiff, but it is neglible). Use nylon lined cable, but expect some stretch if fitted new. Be prepared to adjust them.
On top of the engine, fit NOS pivot and swivel (Madspeed had some Spanish NOS items) and fit new trunnions to the cables. Remove the gear change lever (the one that comes out of the gearbox) and cut off the lug on the top. Weld on an inverted (upside-down) M6 bolt* in it's place and use a nyloc to secure the tie rod instead of the old circlip. Make a new tie rod between the trunnion and the M6 bolt, ensuring that there is the minimum slack in the tie rod.
That's how to eliminate slop in your gear change.
PS: The splined Spanish wheels (ali) are as good as italian parts
* Some people use a stud instead of a bolt. I prefer a bolt as studs tend to be waisted in the middle, incuring some sloppiness. In fact, I prefer a bolt that is not threaded along it's full length.
On top of the engine, fit NOS pivot and swivel (Madspeed had some Spanish NOS items) and fit new trunnions to the cables. Remove the gear change lever (the one that comes out of the gearbox) and cut off the lug on the top. Weld on an inverted (upside-down) M6 bolt* in it's place and use a nyloc to secure the tie rod instead of the old circlip. Make a new tie rod between the trunnion and the M6 bolt, ensuring that there is the minimum slack in the tie rod.
That's how to eliminate slop in your gear change.
PS: The splined Spanish wheels (ali) are as good as italian parts
* Some people use a stud instead of a bolt. I prefer a bolt as studs tend to be waisted in the middle, incuring some sloppiness. In fact, I prefer a bolt that is not threaded along it's full length.
