step by step watercooled lambretta kdx220 setup

[Diablo]

Yes all good stuff love this thread

[rocho68]

is the spiggot part under size at the moment? and are you going to make some kind of jig to ensure the new billet peice is in the right position?

Im in the process of making a tool that fits into the billet then locates in whats left of the old barrel spigot , this will then keep it central when the it is "tacked into position " ,The spigot has a tolerance of 0.5mm which is the same as the standard motorcycle casings but quite large in engineering terms so offers a little give from the off and im hoping that i wont have to do any major machining later as i want to be as builder friendly as possible ,plus the guy who does my ali welding is an absolute god with very little distorting happening in previous work ive had done , so fingers crossed .................

[rocho68]

heres some more photos of the billet "block "



and here ........



absolutely awsome ,look at the size of the ports ...........

[guygrrr]

very interesting. I take it you're looking to make these available for purchase? If so, what sort of $ are you thinking you'll ask?
I can't wait to see how it comes together.

[rocho68]

very interesting. I take it you're looking to make these available for purchase? If so, what sort of $ are you thinking you'll ask?
I can't wait to see how it comes together.

if theres enough demand for the parts to do the conversion then i would be proberbly do some , as for costs i will have to work it out as i go along as im sure its not going to be all plain sailing although looking at everything required i cant see any problems that i cant overcome , waterpump design , crank and conrod length are sorted with photos to show what to do when twe get to that stage , clearence with reedblock might cause a problem but nothing that cant be re-engineered , ive got some guys in china looking at some drawings for radiators so i aint worried on that point either , powervalve operation is another problem though as electrics are not my cup of tea , a cable operated one is easy as is a electric manual indicator type switch , a fully automatic one kicking in at 6000 revs is a different matter but something i can sort later .....................

[J1MS]

There's a guy on the TZR forum that's a wizard with the power valve controlers and ignitions might be worth getting on there and taking a look.

[rocho68]

There's a guy on the TZR forum that's a wizard with the power valve controlers and ignitions might be worth getting on there and taking a look.

thanks jim , these are the leads that i need

[soullad]

Why not fit the KDX crank. This would also allow you to fit a reliable ignition, and possibly an external driveside seal
As JIMS points out, some extra welding is needed around the crank area plus I'd beef up the inner ribs on the casing, basically an inch wide solid strip from drive side bolt thru to endplate.

[sean brady scooters]

sounds so easy hey...fit KDX crank ..

[rocho68]

Why not fit the KDX crank. This would also allow you to fit a reliable ignition, and possibly an external driveside seal
As JIMS points out, some extra welding is needed around the crank area plus I'd beef up the inner ribs on the casing, basically an inch wide solid strip from drive side bolt thru to endplate.

I looked at this in the first passes , but the whole idea is to do something that everybody could possibly do , as for cranks its imposssible to buy a new one for reasonable money , with a jap conrod of either rd400 (115mm ) rdlc125 (110mm) or even the kdx rod although this has a thicker rod , i feel these are better options for my conversion as the watercooling will be mechanical rather than electrical and run from the ignition side of things , as for the extra support around the crank , when the billet is welded on ,the casings will then be beefed up to match with a solid crank type packer placed inside the casing which will run from the drive side to the mag then bolted between the two to stop any distortion while the area around the drive side is welded and machined , hopefully this will stop any later cracking !!!