variatronic

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firekdp
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joespeed wrote:the flywheel will go again but i will need to know the exact position of the key way to the pick up where ever it is,there must be a 'right' position.
regards
joe
There is no pick up on the varitronic, which is why it fires twice. It should be possible to find out its position by, putting the boss back on the crank, setting the piston to TDC and using the previous timing marks to align the flywheel to the boss.
joespeed
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firekdp wrote:
joespeed wrote:the flywheel will go again but i will need to know the exact position of the key way to the pick up where ever it is,there must be a 'right' position.
regards
joe
There is no pick up on the varitronic, which is why it fires twice. It should be possible to find out its position by, putting the boss back on the crank, setting the piston to TDC and using the previous timing marks to align the flywheel to the boss.
but the boss can fit at 0 or 180 deg. out.
cambridge lambretta had the correct answer seen as they supplied it,the heavy duty is supplied riveted and tig welded to make sure!
i will revert back to the usual af flywheel and indian stator!
regards
joe
firekdp
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If you followed what I said it could only end up in the correct position.
However, if you were 180 degrees out, it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference, it would run exactly the same. You would even be able to strobe it using the original marks at the top. Your only problem would occur when needing to make new marks, if transferring it to another machine, as the arrow on the flywheel will be at the bottom at TDC.
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tea5ive
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firekdp wrote:If you followed what I said it could only end up in the correct position.
However, if you were 180 degrees out, it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference, it would run exactly the same. You would even be able to strobe it using the original marks at the top. Your only problem would occur when needing to make new marks, if transferring it to another machine, as the arrow on the flywheel will be at the bottom at TDC.
hope you dont mind me chipping in . i have a varitronic kit i bought it second hand. the flywheel has no fan and no arrow. the boss had been removed. i am converting it to go on a j125. i too need to know how to line the boss up (key way) to right place for the trigger as joe said there is no trigger on the flywheel . i know that they fire twice at 180 degree intervals so it wont mater which firing point you use. its just finding it with out moving the boss round a bit at a time. any way if you want to see a bit off back street tuning on a budget and something a little diffferent check my thread out any pearls of wisdom a welome. http://lunaownersclub.lifediscussion.ne ... ve-t20.htm yes i am littlemoon aswell
Lamaddict
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mickyb wrote:the best way to sort the flywheel is to punch out the 5mm rivets, you can then tap the holes in the boss to 6mm, countersink the inside of the flywheel holes and use countersunk screws and loctite to hold it all together. There are two larger rivets that can be used just loctite them in place. I,ve had to do this twice now but had no problems since. First time ripped all the wires on the stator but managed to rejoin them, sencond time didn't give it a chance.
Thanks Mickyb that's a great tip ;)
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Diablo
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tea5ive wrote:
firekdp wrote:If you followed what I said it could only end up in the correct position.
However, if you were 180 degrees out, it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference, it would run exactly the same. You would even be able to strobe it using the original marks at the top. Your only problem would occur when needing to make new marks, if transferring it to another machine, as the arrow on the flywheel will be at the bottom at TDC.
hope you dont mind me chipping in . i have a varitronic kit i bought it second hand. the flywheel has no fan and no arrow. the boss had been removed. i am converting it to go on a j125. i too need to know how to line the boss up (key way) to right place for the trigger as joe said there is no trigger on the flywheel . i know that they fire twice at 180 degree intervals so it wont mater which firing point you use. its just finding it with out moving the boss round a bit at a time. any way if you want to see a bit off back street tuning on a budget and something a little diffferent check my thread out any pearls of wisdom a welome. http://lunaownersclub.lifediscussion.ne ... ve-t20.htm yes i am littlemoon aswell[/quote

Interesting that. Lots of hard work done there. Good luck with the rest of the build. Love the avatar :D
Supereibar
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I got the varitronic 4 years ago. Back then I had no idea that it was "mandatory" to loctite the four allen screws that hold the fan in place so the fan divorced the magneto and mangled it completely. I was told to replace the flywheel. I did. On this one I took the caution and I did loctite the four screws. However, this time the new flywheel had its centreboss split from the magneto and the fins.

Before anything, I must say, that Tino did offer to exchange the flywheel at no cost to me. However I think that certain things are sold as a "bolt on" for road use, then they just happened to need a little initial "care"

Also, this might sound harsh, but as we say around this land, "its better bad but known than great to be discovered"
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tony
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There were some issues with early Vari's. Originally they had some smaller rivets (some at 4mm).. now they are all 5mm I believe.
I use this system on my race bike as does Charley and all the PT team. After much testing and race time he came up with some modifications to increase reliability as stated here.
What probably happened to joe's was that the backs of the rivets came off and destroyed the stator. This shouldnt ever happen on the uprated cam lam ones.

http://lambretta.co.uk/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=3653

So if you have a non standard motor maybe look into this improved version.

Re loctite and the fan.. well that rotor is only around 4mm thick.. with m6x1 threads I would always loctite a screw with so little to bite on. The screws are simply retainers and not location or drive lugs.. so a simple drop of loctite and don't go too mad with the torque and you will be fine.
Sponsors: Performance Tuning. Ve Uk. Scooter Center Koln. LTH . DRT
firekdp
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tea5ive wrote: i too need to know how to line the boss up (key way) to right place for the trigger as joe said there is no trigger on the flywheel . i know that they fire twice at 180 degree intervals so it wont mater which firing point you use. its just finding it with out moving the boss round a bit at a time.
I thought that due to the layout of the rivets on it that the boss will only fit in two positions. :?: Due to the stator/flywheel having no pick up system, either of these two positions will be correct.
joespeed
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firekdp wrote:
tea5ive wrote: i too need to know how to line the boss up (key way) to right place for the trigger as joe said there is no trigger on the flywheel . i know that they fire twice at 180 degree intervals so it wont mater which firing point you use. its just finding it with out moving the boss round a bit at a time.
I thought that due to the layout of the rivets on it that the boss will only fit in two positions. :?: Due to the stator/flywheel having no pick up system, either of these two positions will be correct.
a nice man from cambridge lambretta gave me a short cut to reassembling the boss to the fan ,when the tdc arrow is at twelve o clock the keyway is at about seven o clock ,he then said in needs to be 'charlieized',oh whats that i asked ,two nice tig welds just to make it 'belt and braces' and if charlie cant shake it off with close to forty horses then your little ts should be ok,
regards
joe
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