throttle
trying to put the cables in the frame,got the outer in,any tips on gettin the inner the right length for the carb.26mm delorto,also can i fit solderless nipple under the slide or can you solder a blob on the end. thanks
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Yea don't put a solderless nipple on the carb end, coz if it comes off ur fooked
)

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Feed the cable up from the carb end and then, as the other posters have said, attach the solderless barrel nipple in the headset.
You'll then find that you need to cut the cable, assuming you've got one of the correct longer ones. The first time I did this, I did it on a carb that had no adjuster at the carb end ie. the cable end sat right on the top of the carb. I cut the cable flush with the nipple. This caused a problem several months later when the cable had stretched slightly. This was because I wanted to pull the cable through the solderless nipple for a few millimetres but couldn't grip it. It then slipped through and with a frayed end I couldn't then feed it back through the nipple
Anyway, when I replaced the cable I left about 3cms on the end to cover this issue with the cable stretching. I then pinched an idea that I'd seen on a mate's scooter which was to drill a small hole in the brass pulley, at the edge, put a very small cable tie through it, and then feed the remaining bit of the cable underneath the cable tie. This stops the end catching in the headset when it's all back together.
Hope this helps (and makes sense)
You'll then find that you need to cut the cable, assuming you've got one of the correct longer ones. The first time I did this, I did it on a carb that had no adjuster at the carb end ie. the cable end sat right on the top of the carb. I cut the cable flush with the nipple. This caused a problem several months later when the cable had stretched slightly. This was because I wanted to pull the cable through the solderless nipple for a few millimetres but couldn't grip it. It then slipped through and with a frayed end I couldn't then feed it back through the nipple

Anyway, when I replaced the cable I left about 3cms on the end to cover this issue with the cable stretching. I then pinched an idea that I'd seen on a mate's scooter which was to drill a small hole in the brass pulley, at the edge, put a very small cable tie through it, and then feed the remaining bit of the cable underneath the cable tie. This stops the end catching in the headset when it's all back together.
Hope this helps (and makes sense)

i agree with advice,cheers,but i got 2 solderless nipples but a two long to fit in the twist grip even when filed down,so going to solder it on ,never done this ,any tips on soldering.
nobody solders any more???? 

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http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... er-nipple/
That's the type of cable end I was referring to. It's a simple screw on and when the cable stretches you can adjust it (if you don't have an adjuster at the carb end).
I've only ever soldered a blob of solder on a cable end, not an actual nipple but if you're going to solder a nipple on the end, I'd put flux (the brown grease appearance stuff not the liquid type) on the cable, and then heat that for a couple of seconds with the soldering iron. Then quickly place the nipple on, and drip the molten solder over the join. Do it quickly and don't mess with it. The solder join should be bright silver and not cloudy.
Leave it for a few minutes and then test it. If you're not happy with it (it has a bit of a knack to it), take the solder off and start again. This usually works for me but, I don't solder for a living
, and if I was in your shoes, I'd go the screw on barrel as it's less likely to come off 
That's the type of cable end I was referring to. It's a simple screw on and when the cable stretches you can adjust it (if you don't have an adjuster at the carb end).
I've only ever soldered a blob of solder on a cable end, not an actual nipple but if you're going to solder a nipple on the end, I'd put flux (the brown grease appearance stuff not the liquid type) on the cable, and then heat that for a couple of seconds with the soldering iron. Then quickly place the nipple on, and drip the molten solder over the join. Do it quickly and don't mess with it. The solder join should be bright silver and not cloudy.
Leave it for a few minutes and then test it. If you're not happy with it (it has a bit of a knack to it), take the solder off and start again. This usually works for me but, I don't solder for a living


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You will need a fairly powerfull soldering iron, i.e. 25 watts or bigger, some flux and some solder. Put some flux ion like Storkfoot says but then I would slide nthe nipple on and apply heat to the nipple and keepp dabing the sliderr onto the nipple until it starts to run. The whole area, cable tip and nipplke have to be hot enough at the same time otherwise the solder won't 'flow' throught the joint and it will pull off. Personally I would only bother soldering it I was stuck. It would be MUCH cheaper to but a new inner (you should be able to pick one up from a bicycle shop) than buying solder, flux, soldering iron.storkfoot wrote:I've only ever soldered a blob of solder on a cable end, not an actual nipple but if you're going to solder a nipple on the end, I'd put flux (the brown grease appearance stuff not the liquid type) on the cable, and then heat that for a couple of seconds with the soldering iron. Then quickly place the nipple on, and drip the molten solder over the join. Do it quickly and don't mess with it. The solder join should be bright silver and not cloudy.
Leave it for a few minutes and then test it. If you're not happy with it (it has a bit of a knack to it), take the solder off and start again. This usually works for me but, I don't solder for a living, and if I was in your shoes, I'd go the screw on barrel as it's less likely to come off