Cellulose rattle can respray tips please

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storkfoot
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I want to cheaply spray up the panelwork on my Lynx with aerosols using one of those trigger attachments that fit over the top of the can. It's been blown over in a wrong shade of red anyway, there are significant rust patches, and the legshields under the mats need some welding done first.

http://scooterotica.org/tempforum/viewt ... =10&t=5315

I've got no plans to blast it, nitromors it, or get a near perfect finish. I suppose want it to look it's age, but to stop the rust getting any worse

Any tips please :D
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ForemanBob
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Personally you need to sand as much as you can to get the base smooth.

Any remaining rust treat with "Cure Rust" or the like. Then give it a bit of Etch Primer (get it in Halfords)

A few coats of filler primer on top of that will allow you to fill in the little imperfections.

Then the secret to the top coat is to get a good nozzle that will allow you a decent fan.
If you get the final paint made up from a paint supplier they should be able to give you a decent spray nozzle. The halfords ones spray a round pattern.

Paint from a standard rattle can will also not be petrol resistant, so that may be a problem for you, but you can cover it with "petrol Resist laquer".

You can get excellent results though. And its a wonder what 2000 wet n dry followed by a bit of compound can do to give a professional look to it.

This link gives loads of good advice....
http://www.carspace.com/guides/MAXIMIZI ... ERFORMANCE

Bob
storkfoot
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Thanks for the reply, mate. I was going to get the paint matched and not buy an off the shelf colour (it's an orangey red Spanish Lynx so I'm not aware of any paint codes for it anyway).

I'll ask about the nozzles when I go and get it matched. I'll be painting both panels, headset, leggies and runner boards. Any ideas on the number of cans I'll need?
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ForemanBob
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Depends on the amount of solids in the paint. I would reckon that you'll need 3 thin ish coats of top.

1 small rattle can would probably do 1 and a bit side panels. So guestimate 5 - 6 :?:
Just depends how liberal you are with your applications. More paint on it the better the finish you can get.

try these guys.... they can give you a can against a Lecher code
http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails. ... election=4

The 400ml can is the mid-size that you'd get in halfords, so get away with 4?
fajes
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I always put on tens of very thin layers with only a few minutes between them. works fine!

but you have to use a proper laquer or else all your work will be ruined after a few petrol spills...
wine for my men, we ride at dawn!
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coaster
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All good advice above but it isn't necessarily the cheapest way to do it, I reckon I spent well over £100 on primmer, base coats and lacquer when I did my LiS a few years ago. It turned out really well but as previously mentioned, petrol resistant laquer is a must on the hoop, panels and rear runners. In fact anywhere petrol might contact, I didn't realise that acrylic was affected by petrol until the first overfill :cry: I made the mistake of trying to wipem the petrol off and took most of the laquer off on the paper towel :shock:

The real sectret to a good finish is getting the surface really smooth. As mentioned, use spray filler over any repaired areas, make sure you feather out the edges and don't put it on too thick. Build it up slowly and flat with 600 wet & dry. Put 2 or 3 coats of primer over the whole area to be sprayed and flat it with 800 wet & dry making sure you get rid of all traces of orange peel. Use a VERY light (guide)coat of a dark colour over the primer before you start flatting (hold the can about 18" from the surface, all you want is a speckly coat) as you flat the guid coat you will easily see the low spots and minor blemishes which if too deep will need cellelose stopper applied. When you have finished flatting you should have a perfectly smooth finish ready for your colour coat.

Here's a few pictures of mine:
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storkfoot
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I see what you mean about the cost, Col. Beginning to have second thoughts about whether it might actually be cheaper to let an adult who knows what they're doing do it :lol:

Have you got the spraygun on your Jet yet, mate?
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coaster
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storkfoot wrote:Have you got the spraygun on your Jet yet, mate?
I've just had it all blasted which has revealed some rust holes. Had the welder out last weekend and have managed to weld in the missing bits. Just been beating out some dents and filling others. I intend using a little Earlex high volume low pressure (HVLP) sprayer which I bought recently (£40 B&Q), I have used a vacuum cleaner attachment in the past to good effect so I am optomistic that I'll get an acceptable finish out of the HVLP, providing the viscosity is right orange peel should be avoidable.

Even with the cost of the HVPL I reckon I'll get the jet painted for less than the LiS did with rattle cans and it will have a 2k finish 8-)

The only advantage with rattle cans really is that you do it over a period of weeks/months just buying more ;) cans as you need them. That way you don't notice how much you have spent
steve c
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buy a very cheap compressor, aldi usually do one about now for £70, or the earlex hot air one

Use cellulose 50% paint 50% thinners, mix in plastic wilko style jugs

You can get paint and thinners off ebay, the paint is much thicker and will be cheaper than cans, £10 500ml paint top coat, £8 primer filler per litre, always buy top coat thinner £15 5 litres

Rattle cans are very expensive is you only get 400ml of very thinned down paint, which is isnt very hard wearing , in my experience celly keeps. Primer filler doesnt always when opened though.

Google for technique videos

regards

steve
storkfoot
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Well, as it happens, other than a bit of a polish now, I finally finished this over the weekend. I started painting it with Halfords cans in red but quickly realised that this was going to be too expensive. Then I remembered I had a tin of cellulose yellow ochre in the garage so, after getting this made into cans, it became a Yellow Ochre Lynx, with bits of red (the frame and loop was properly painted black).

Would I do it again on cold Winter's nights in a damp garage, no chance. Much too messy and time consuming. Will it win any concours events, not a chance :biggrin:
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