or the person one fleebay selling the brass one's
R1 Shock conversion bushes help
Some plastics can be very nice, but given a choice I would go for brass. Use a little grease when you fit them and they should out last you.
It`s all powerfull white mans magic
My Scoots,
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... CF0600.jpg
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... 01/035.jpg
My Scoots,
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... CF0600.jpg
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... 01/035.jpg
im sure i have some plastic ones left
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100mphlambrettaclub
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Nightmare to get the plastic bush type conversion shock off ,cant say the brass type is much easier but the better of the two.
I believe there was a problem with some R1 shocks snapping and I think the ones that snapped had brass bushes. The nylon type will probably give some slight degree of flexibility. I got some plastics ones for my R1 conversion from Scootrs and they seem very good quality, you can also get some UK made ones that are also good.
- Andy Pickering
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I have the plastic/nylon bushes in and like Stu said it was a t+at to get off so when I re-build will dremel a tad and use copperslip on the bushes to give a bit of tolerence..
Ricspeed, gone but never forgotten RIP my friend #59
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Knowledge
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The issue with the R1 shocks that snapped were because the main nuts had been over tightened and the shock had no room to swivel on the top and bottom mounts.Lamaddict wrote:I believe there was a problem with some R1 shocks snapping and I think the ones that snapped had brass bushes. The nylon type will probably give some slight degree of flexibility. I got some plastics ones for my R1 conversion from Scootrs and they seem very good quality, you can also get some UK made ones that are also good.
If you use an R1 shock, you MUST use slim M14 nyloc nuts. You tighten them up against the shock, and then wind them back out a half a turn.
Use of grease or copper slip will help the shock move and ease removal. I don't think that it matters if you use brass or plastic (I use plastic), but you must leave enough room for the shock to rotate on the studs.
Chiggy sells both bushes and slim nuts.
Martin
hi i am the person selling them on e bay sold a few hundred now also i have one set of plastic,,, you call 11 quid brass 10 quid plastic,,, cheaper than flea bay,,, pm for details
They snapped because they were not designed to be used on a Lambretta.
By using backed off nuts / copperslip / relieved bushes etc etc all you are doing is allowing the bushes / shock interface to slip until such time that the compressional forces take over and the shock begins to compress . Its testament to their over engineered Jap quality that more haven't snapped. They also do not allow any side to side flex as per original shocks
They work well but think about it......why would you want it to slip or rotate......its bad engineering design.....the compressional forces are now operating outside the line between the two damper axis.
Just my opinion, but then again mine snapped and I've had time to ponder this more than most perhaps.......
By using backed off nuts / copperslip / relieved bushes etc etc all you are doing is allowing the bushes / shock interface to slip until such time that the compressional forces take over and the shock begins to compress . Its testament to their over engineered Jap quality that more haven't snapped. They also do not allow any side to side flex as per original shocks
They work well but think about it......why would you want it to slip or rotate......its bad engineering design.....the compressional forces are now operating outside the line between the two damper axis.
Just my opinion, but then again mine snapped and I've had time to ponder this more than most perhaps.......
