dc conversion

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minotaur
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i have the original handle bar switch, which in '62 would work all the lights as there was no ignition, just a kill button .

someone previously wired in an ignition switch, which now works like a gp ignition where as it works the lights and the handle bar wires were taken to the ignition switch instead.

the original handle bar switch now operates main / dip & horn as a gp would,

i can easily live with just II & III powering the accessories
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byron
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minotaur wrote:...i can easily live with just II & III powering the accessories
then go with what I suggested, you need to feed the main/dip on the switch with the switched power from the orange on the ignition switch.

I did one of these on a series II, using an Indian igition switch as you have, then rewired the switch so the original light switch on the handlebar turned the foglamp on, and the spotlamp would come on only when on main beam. saves having additional switches inside the legshields, and reduces the number of wires to the handlebar switch to five.
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minotaur
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sounds good to me , thanks
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minotaur
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back from the thinking shed, :idea: , isn't the horn feed live on first ignition position, could this be used ????
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byron
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minotaur wrote:back from the thinking shed, :idea: , isn't the horn feed live on first ignition position, could this be used ????
the horn is live all the time, and will be able to be sounded without the engine running or even the keys in the ignition, so if you used this your gauges would be on all the time.
would that eventually drain the battery ? you really want the battery to be at it's best at al times...
firekdp
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If you're not bothered about pilot lights then I believe a cheap scootrs ignition switch will allow you the option of running circuits in the normal run position/lights off.
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soulsurfer
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I always ride with lights on anyway, so if you wire into your lighting circuit, your guages will be a nice reminder to switch your lights on ;)
Turn On, Tune In, Cop out!
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minotaur
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thanks again, of course i can't have a live all the time, - flat battery, learning loads tho', i also ride with lights, but like options,thanks, it was never my original intention to go dc, glad i have, but lambrettas , one door opens another shuts etc............
J1MS
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TV 175 (original ignition switch) on a series 2 has a switched horn wire from the ignition switch which comes on at the first position and then stays live in all other positions that's until the ignition is turned to off. This makes it a useful switch when used with accessories (Phone charging socket, SatNav & Rev counter) on a dc conversion. The brake light being the only part of the scooter that still has a dc feed even with the ignition off.
firekdp
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J1MS wrote:TV 175 (original ignition switch) on a series 2 has a switched horn wire from the ignition switch which comes on at the first position and then stays live in all other positions that's until the ignition is turned to off. This makes it a useful switch when used with accessories (Phone charging socket, SatNav & Rev counter) on a dc conversion. The brake light being the only part of the scooter that still has a dc feed even with the ignition off.
Yes, same on early series 3 TV175 but don't expect to find this type for sensible money.
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