dc conversion
good luck powering all that m8
i do have a 12v 9 amp battery so hoping for the best
i have been doing this mate and its not as good as you think . the stator (even bgm 120w) does not put out enough amps to charge a battery with nothing more than std lights on
, even then its borderline
. read this post to get more info
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7280
no offence meant
http://scooterotica.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7280
no offence meant
60% higher than the battery nominal rating
ie 5 amphour battery 8A fuse
10 amphour battery 16A fuse
etc etc etc
ie 5 amphour battery 8A fuse
10 amphour battery 16A fuse
etc etc etc
It`s all powerfull white mans magic
My Scoots,
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... CF0600.jpg
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... 01/035.jpg
My Scoots,
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... CF0600.jpg
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... 01/035.jpg
thanks for the fuse info looks like 15amp for a 9amp battery then, i'll let you know how it all goes thanks guys
A 10A one should be fine.
i'll try 10amp fuse and see how it goes, thanks a lot
i am now about to attach my fuel guage and egt unit, i want to splice these to my ignition key switch, it is an aftermarket indian type on a '62 li 125 s3, i want them to work with the battery on my new dc conversion .
ignition works on I, sidelights on II and headlights on III with battery alone and /or engine running so all is well
i need the fuel gauge/egt to work on I, II & III so which colour wire do i connect the lives to, the ignition switch was a non battery type when bought
thanks
ignition works on I, sidelights on II and headlights on III with battery alone and /or engine running so all is well
i need the fuel gauge/egt to work on I, II & III so which colour wire do i connect the lives to, the ignition switch was a non battery type when bought
thanks
- byron
- registered user
- Posts: 1226
- Joined: Wed Jan 07, 2009 11:45 am
- Main scooter: Li Special; scarred,but sound
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as it's an AC switch, sounds like you've already used all the options.
all position l does is disconnect the CDI from earth, nothing else is switched.
but do you need a seperate sidelights and then headlamp positions ?
you could use position ll to switch the power to the gauges.
so [assuming it has colours as per the ones from Scooter Restorations], have the blue from the ignition plugged into a live power, this connects to the black & yellow in position ll, so use these for your gauges.
in position lll brown is conected to orange, so use this to feed your lights, inc to take power to the rear lamp via the [usually] black wire, speedo, festoon and to the main/dip switch.
what handlebar switch have you got ?
then the guages should work in pos ll and continue to work in pos lll when the lights come on too. they won't work [but the engine will run] in pos l
hth
edit: I missed off a "l" earlier
, blue connects to black & yellow in position ll
all position l does is disconnect the CDI from earth, nothing else is switched.
but do you need a seperate sidelights and then headlamp positions ?
you could use position ll to switch the power to the gauges.
so [assuming it has colours as per the ones from Scooter Restorations], have the blue from the ignition plugged into a live power, this connects to the black & yellow in position ll, so use these for your gauges.
in position lll brown is conected to orange, so use this to feed your lights, inc to take power to the rear lamp via the [usually] black wire, speedo, festoon and to the main/dip switch.
what handlebar switch have you got ?
then the guages should work in pos ll and continue to work in pos lll when the lights come on too. they won't work [but the engine will run] in pos l
hth
edit: I missed off a "l" earlier
Last edited by byron on Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
