LTH Reed

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joespeed
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by using the reed on my cylinder do you think i would end up with a torquey better spread of power?
a freind has a 250 rapido it is very quick and just pulls really smooth right up to 80mph but it does spit fuel out of the carb,will the reed cure the spitting and give this more torque?
it soon becomes a decision between the rapido modded or a ts1!!!!
regards
joe
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Dazza
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Joe, the dilemma about the lth and the Ts1 is one I've been having, but from what Seans said and in fact done with this one has made my mind up- anyway why go with a boring ts1? Try something a little different :D
If it aint broke.........tinker with it.....
camel
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ive had some interesting and useful information from this post(apart from not knowing the price of the LTH reed manifold?anyone?)..its just got me thinking why people dont take this route with iron barrels,it would cure the spit back with big carbs,boost performance and be a cheap as chips!
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chris2470
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This is a good question TS1 or LTH conversion.
The LTH can be found here:
http://www.lambretta-teile.de/product_i ... retta.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
TBH there is not much in cost difference at all between a Rapido Classic with LTH or a TS1, and interestingly they will probably be totally different animals so it will all be in person preference.
The main benefit I see with the Rapido and LTH is you will have the whole spectrum of tuning potential, before you start, giving more options, whether you want a low down torque monster or a balls our rev monster.
Best Regards

Chris
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wack 63
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Hi, I have the LTH reeds to fit this week and was wondering when to open the boost port as have read various tuning books and all quote different timings ie before ,after or at same time as main transfers.Some say opening before gets the exhaust gasses moving,others at same time to slow transfer mix down and later to avoid flowing straight out the exhaust port. Any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks
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Rich_T
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camel wrote:ive had some interesting and useful information from this post(apart from not knowing the price of the LTH reed manifold?anyone?)..its just got me thinking why people dont take this route with iron barrels,it would cure the spit back with big carbs,boost performance and be a cheap as chips!
You would have thought so, but even with big pistons, tuning and lage boost ports I couldn't get a substantial increase in power to merrit all the hastle over a 225 big bore. I could get a big increae in MPG over an iron 225 with 30mm PHBH and clubman but that was it. I dropped the project because it did not deliver the performance.
thackers
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wack 63 wrote:Hi, I have the LTH reeds to fit this week and was wondering when to open the boost port as have read various tuning books and all quote different timings ie before ,after or at same time as main transfers.Some say opening before gets the exhaust gasses moving,others at same time to slow transfer mix down and later to avoid flowing straight out the exhaust port. Any thoughts would be appreciated Thanks
You doing the Vega Lloyd? I was wondering about the LTH manifold for this, or perhaps having a go at carving one myself from a alloy billet especially as they retail for around £170 ish all under the guidence of Mick Abbey though ;)
Thoughts on wether it's possible to create your own reed manifold would be good, anyone?
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sean brady scooters
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"RAT FINKS" reed block manifold was made using a vespa malossi reed block welded onto a greatly shortened 30mm manifold (200 type).

what i used to do in the 80,s was to obtain an old crosser barrel and cut out the whole reed block ,and then again weld that to a manifold.
Sean Brady Scooters - 01765 690 698
Agent Buchwald
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I've just got a KX80 barrel that I'm going to cut up and weld to an old CDC manifold, I'll put some pictures up but it'll be a while working out the clearances etc.
By the way the porting on a 15 year old KX barrel makes any Lambretta kit look sick - sick as in original meaning, I'm not down with any kids.
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Rich_T
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The manifold I made was with a 30mm CDC manifold welded to a 8mm plate that was profiled around a runner reed valve (PM performance version). It was all carved out to accommodate the open petals then fillet welded and trimed again. It looked really neat, took time but didn't cost a fortune £55 tops including the reed valve (£30) and £15 for the welding.
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