GP Body work problems

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Bilko
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Doing a bit of a dry build and I've a couple of problems.

In the first picture, the bridge holes are way out. Is it common to have to grind away the bridge by almost half an inch to get it to fit?

In the second picture, the middle of the legshields touch the frame tube and it seems quite bad as it stops them from touching the struts. They only touch the struts when they're bolted down.

Image

Image

I've measured the frame from the toolbox door to the frame tube and it seems ok.
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sydduckett
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I have the same problem on my series 3, holes are way out like yours. Also have a gap at the botom on one side of the bridge where it meets the loop. none of the floor boards seem to lie right or have even gaps and i want it sorted this time out as these are things i never got round to doing first time round. Im having the rear runners shortned and some bits done so have asked the fabricator to see if he can work out whats causing the problem. I have a sneaking idea its the rear struts being pissed as they look as someone has re-welded them sometime before i got hold of the scoot.
Must say not a bad idea to shave some of the back of the bridge but does seem like a bodge or am i just being picky... :?

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corrado
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I'd check the alignment of the floor crossmember and I'd elongate the hole in the bridge piece rather than cut it.
Is it Italian or injun?
Did you get a horncasting?
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corrado
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......just looking at the pics again,... does the bridge line up with the leggies removed? Is it the leggies sitting proud that's stopping the bridge seating?
Are the rubber grommets in place under the leggies and rear footboards? it makes a difference even on a dry build.
Bilko
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Thanks for the replies.

It's Indian.

With the leggies off, it does bring the hole's closer, but will still need filing out longer.

The middle struts are off a bit, the rear struts are off.

My only option here is to bodge it. It wouldn't merit the cost of posting a frame to the likes of Mike Phoenix to get welding done. :(
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Stokie
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If the struts are in the wrong place then can't you reposition them rather than cutting your bodywork to fit ?
The struts are the least cosmetic parts here and could be cut off and re-welded (or replaced) to be in the correct position. You've got all the bodywork there to figurue out where they need to go so it shouldn't be too difficult to sort.
Presumably there's someone with welding equipment near to where you are ?
Bilko
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Stokie, This sort of thing is out of my league and I'd only leave the frame to someone who really knew the score and had all the right measurements and dimensions. There's nobody round here that fits the bill.

I'm thinking of cutting off the rear struts and use cut off runner boards. Pillion footpegs on the engine mounts. That seems the way to go. It'll look better than an out of shape mess!
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corrado
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I wouldn't have thought there was too much expertise required in welding a new crossmember on. Just mark the position of the strut before grinding off the old one. Then stick the frame in a vice and use a spirit level to make sure it's upright, then using the spirit level again to line up the cross member. Just a small tack weld on either side then check again with the level. It's pretty ease to see with the naked eye wether the crossmember is way out or not. Then again I know feck all. :P

Thankfully I've got Frank Sanderson and Mike Phoenix on my weekly route.
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sean brady scooters
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you make it sound so easy martin........... :D
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sydduckett
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got the same problem and bloke will hopefully look at all possible causes before cutting off the struts and welding them back on (straight this time) is there any info out there regarding exactly where they should go, measurments, suggestions and so on...

Want to give hime as much iinfo as poss as hes not a scooter expert per say.... :(

sef
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