Lambretta Points Ignition...

[ove]

Nice one J1MS more "how to" guides would be a right bonus.

[firekdp]

If you are replacing the ignition coil wire it is best to run this wire all the way to the points crimp, then remove a small piece of insulation from it above the condensor (as in Sticky's book). Then you only need to heat the joint once, this is better for the condensor and also the more times you heat a joint the weaker it becomes.

[firekdp]

PS it's wired as per Spanish DC motoplat system except for the fact it's got an extra coil and no ignition coil, I wouldn't have thought that this would have been wired to a bridge rectifier.

[J1MS]

PS it's wired as per Spanish DC motoplat system except for the fact it's got an extra coil and no ignition coil, I wouldn't have thought that this would have been wired to a bridge rectifier.

Its battery points ignition on this stator, There are two feeds and basically a central tap, I cant work out without seeing the scooter how it would wire without a bridge rectifier... But I could be wrong as there are a few variants on Lambros... The green wire comes from the points & condenser with no connection to any coil at the stator, through the ignition to the coil... so I would think it will take a feed from the dc side of the electrical supply somewhere... The wiring on Lambro Three Wheelers is a little different from a standard series 3... but the basis of the supply is still from a 6 pole setup on this one...

Your right about the wire to the points being better in one piece, but on points with a pre soldered wire its best not to remove it as the tag sometimes gets damaged... I use to buy the original type points, without the wire pre connected, and these I would wire direct to the points and condenser with one wire and the end result is much neater...

[dirtyhandslopez]

Ahah! Is that why the wire connecting to the points looked odd to me?

[J1MS]

Ahah! Is that why the wire connecting to the points looked odd to me?

I think it must have looked odd to my mate as well as he couldnt get a spark from the stator... Im not even sure if he knows its battery points yet...

[firekdp]

It'll be interesting to see what system this scoot is using. Apart from the rectifying issue it will also need a DC ignition coil and a totally different type of ignition switch.

[dapper]

Nice article Jims. On my scoot, I've taken the condenser away from the stator and connected it to the frame leg as the earth and the wire from it connects to the LT lead to the coil, so does the same job. This removes it from the harsh environment of the flywheel, and I have a spare next to the condenser, so that if one condenser breaks down, all I have to do is swap a wire over and I'm up and running again. Saves taking the running board, flywheel cover, flywheel and dust cover off. Timing doesn't have to be reset either.

[Supereibar]

Eventhough Sticky does a great job describing about everything in his manual of slimstyles, the points is a subject that I have failed over and over and over and over. Frustrating. I can regulate the points with a feeler gauge but there is no way I can do what you have done as I am as bad at sodering as the person (or animal) who soder that stator before you did

I agree with the boys. A how do section for this stupid (but incredibly touchy issues) would be very welcome!!


J.

[sean brady scooters]

such a section already exists........."SCOOTEROTICA TUNING & MAINTENANCE SECTION "

and with JIMS permission of course.......we will add his great "how to" articles to that........