running pathfinders without battery

[nop LRSC]

i'm afraid they're not. shipped them to lth when i wrote my last posting here.

i'll ask them...

[soulsurfer]

Found them, thanks
http://www.lambretta-teile.de/product_i ... r-P26.html

[JINX]

Here's a little tid bit to add to this discussion.

I ran a battery-less AC system with LED brake lights. Power went through the usual ducati regulator and out to the loom. I used the stock running light for the rear and added 2 acorn led's, each having 12 or so diodes in them. Because they are used to DC, the AC that ran through them made them flicker very quickly, which you might not think would be great. BUT, everyone always told me how noticable the brake lights were because of that flicker. The headlight was strong once going, and I used a 6v AC horn, which is fairly loud with 12v running through it, no it never blew up.

I simply dremeled circles into the rear lens and hot glued the LED's into place. They ran for 5 years without issue.

I got them from a trucking supplier- http://www.iowa80.com/DirectionsWEB/web ... LEDBEEHIVE

I now have this setup: I use the 4 coils in a row, yellows at each end, going to a podtronics, then to a battery for charge and then on to the rest of the bike as DC. I have 3 led bullets in the rear, 1 for running, 2 for brake. I plan on adding twin spots to the front, one aimed up, the other down, they each would be used one at a time along with the main headlamp.
When I can get the bike to idle, I'll try to put my multimeter on things to test it all out.
So far, everything works, I had to switch to a ac horn and a different brake switch.

[J1MS]

^^^Good info, thanx Jinx..^^^

[rog60]

Another footnote to this..........I've opened up the headlight bulb holder(22mm) to accept an H4 55/60W bulb and used a 3 pin bulb connector to link the dip and main circuits to the H4 bulb. I used the advice given in Scootering about a year ago after using one of 'Sparkright's' wrapround rear LED stop/tail bulbs, these give a better spread of light around the GP lense so the light is brighter. Another bonus being the headlight doesn't 'dip' when the rear brake is used.
Rightly or wrongly I estimated the the wattage saved in using the LED bulb could be used to good effect at the front bulb..................works OK so far.

BTW this is on a dealer built Indian GP(Indian stator/flywheel etc)

[coaster]

Hi all, I found this company on ebay http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/THUNDERBI ... ec0Q2em322 and was wondering if it's the same one mentioned by Soulsurfer some time back (that item has now been removed). There are 2 DC regulators on the site and my question would be which one to go for, single or 3 phase?

The zener they sell would probably also do it but I quite like the idea of going fully DC.

JJust to update you on my 'experimental' system, It has been running fine since April and charging a 7.2 APH battery and driving a couple od DC horns. Just before the IOW I fitted a pair of rear mount spots and wired them to an auxilary switch and relay. I then noticed my headlamp was dim and found that one of my paralleled 5watt zenners was shorting. I then uprated the system by wiring 5 x 5 Watt zenners (the complete stock of the local Maplin) in parallel and with everything working set off for the IOW with the sat nav plugged into a DC accessory socket. 150 mile later I noticed that my lights were flickering and my sat nav wasn't charging

On the island I pulled things apart and deduced that the zeners or rectifier were fried

Yesterday I pulled it all apart and found that the zenners and bridge rectifier are all fine, the fault was down to one of the wires to my new spot switch shorting earth I put it all back together and the battery charges but it sems that it may have succumed to overcharging as it now won't hold a charge. With the engine running the horn works fine but the spots dim the headlights.

Rather that risk frying another battery with the current set up I would like to try the full DC route and maybe rewire the spare 120 watt BGM stator I have sitting idle.

[firekdp]

Hi all, I found this company on ebay http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/THUNDERBI ... ec0Q2em322 and was wondering if it's the same one mentioned by Soulsurfer some time back (that item has now been removed). There are 2 DC regulators on the site and my question would be which one to go for, single or 3 phase?.

You will need the single phase. If your spots are powered from the battery and were shorting then your fuse should have blown. Maybe this is where the battery damage occurred

[soulsurfer]

Hi Col, this is the guy I got mine from http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT it looks the same as the one you found, just a few quid cheaper, and yes, single phase

firekdp, shoud the fuse go on the +ve or -ve ?

[firekdp]

firekdp, shoud the fuse go on the +ve or -ve ?

Conventionally fuses are fitted in the pos feed, but if you are using one fuse to protect all circuits then it is easier to fit it into the neg lead, fitted here a short an any circuit will blow the fuse and the battery is totally isolated. If you are protecting individual circuits with separate fuses then you will have to fit them in the pos supply of each one.

[coaster]

Cheers guys