
My Li225 Special
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Think it is to do with inertia of rotating and reciprocating mass, generally it seems to be preferred that any thing that is spinning should be lighter, provided you don't reduce strength too much or it's not being used for it's flywheel effect. (but I could be totally wrong of course
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It's inertia that matters, not mass. For linear motion mass and inertia are the same thing.
For rotation inertia is measured in kg metres squared. So if you remove mass from the edge of a wheel it helps many times more than if it is removed from the centre.
If one gramme is twice as far from the centre of the flywheel it increases inertia by four times the amount it would otherwise.
For rotation inertia is measured in kg metres squared. So if you remove mass from the edge of a wheel it helps many times more than if it is removed from the centre.
If one gramme is twice as far from the centre of the flywheel it increases inertia by four times the amount it would otherwise.
- HxPaul
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When you take into account not only the spinning of the clutch basket,but the movement of the gears,layshaft,rear hub and wheel,not to mention the weight of the rider,the saving made by having a lighter clutch basket must be miniscule by comparison and only noticeable at tick over speed.
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I know what you're saying and to some extent you're right.HxPaul wrote:When you take into account not only the spinning of the clutch basket,but the movement of the gears,layshaft,rear hub and wheel,not to mention the weight of the rider,the saving made by having a lighter clutch basket must be miniscule by comparison and only noticeable at tick over speed.
Think of it this way, it's spinning at approximately one third the speed of the flywheel. And at first guess I'd reckon it weighs approximately half that of the flywheel including plates etc. Plus I'd estimate it's about two thirds the radius of the flywheel.
Taking those factors means that the inertia of the clutch (in its entirety) is about 10% as important as that of the flywheel.
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Time for some update pics I think, but most of the changes are under the skin 


It's now a 230 thanks to a 60/115 crank and runs a lighter forged piston, sadly back to four speed (broke 2 teeth of first and the cluster on the 5 speed
), 5 plate clutch, mid range tank fitted, remove toolbox, move battery to old toolbox position, fit legshield toolbox, fit louvres to old toolbox door for improved ventilation (and coz I thought it looked cool), jockeys headlight kit (highly recommended), fit custom "plumbing" for remote filter.



Going really nicely now!



It's now a 230 thanks to a 60/115 crank and runs a lighter forged piston, sadly back to four speed (broke 2 teeth of first and the cluster on the 5 speed




Going really nicely now!
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Good question, I wanted to fit the airfilter where:storkfoot wrote:I am curious. Why did you feel the need to fit the "plumbing"?
a. it would be as far away from road dirt as possible
b. be totally unobstructed by side panels etc
c. be in a position to get most benefit from any cool air coming through the vented toolbox door
