Mine has a Speedfight 100cc master cylinder made by AJP. It's smaller than all the ones that come as part of a Lambretta specific kit and, therefore, gives more feel. It's probably over 10 years old and still works well. If it stops working, there's still plenty of cheap second hand ones on ebay.
It's mated to an MB housing.
stopping power for a Lambretta isnt limited to hydraulics
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I admire your optimism Paul. If it stops working, you might not be in a fit state to visit eBay.storkfoot wrote:If it stops working, there's still plenty of cheap second hand ones on ebay

Martin
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I eventually dragged my lazy arse into the garage to swap the brake arm for a longer clutch arm. There are a few fiddles required to get this working right but they're all easy.
1. Bend the clutch arm outward or it touches the rim
2. If you're using the thicker Sr brake cable you need to open out the slot in the clutch arm. Along the entire length of the slot, NOT just enough to get the cable in or the cable will follow a lazy S.
3. Get a clutch cable trunnion and file a flat for the top hat to sit on.
4. Drill the hole in the trunnion out to 3.5mm regardless of which cable you're using.
5. p155 around until you've got the inner the right length.

This picture shows what I've done to the trunnion.

Overview of finished job. I initially didn't slot the arm properly so I didn't have such a straight pull between arm and adjuster. This would make it spongey and cause cable failure.
I've got the same stopping power as before but much more progressive.
Yes I know I need a new inner.
1. Bend the clutch arm outward or it touches the rim
2. If you're using the thicker Sr brake cable you need to open out the slot in the clutch arm. Along the entire length of the slot, NOT just enough to get the cable in or the cable will follow a lazy S.
3. Get a clutch cable trunnion and file a flat for the top hat to sit on.
4. Drill the hole in the trunnion out to 3.5mm regardless of which cable you're using.
5. p155 around until you've got the inner the right length.

This picture shows what I've done to the trunnion.

Overview of finished job. I initially didn't slot the arm properly so I didn't have such a straight pull between arm and adjuster. This would make it spongey and cause cable failure.
I've got the same stopping power as before but much more progressive.
Yes I know I need a new inner.