Ok so I've just rebuilt an engine for a friend using Adige plates and Yamaha springs, certainly is what I'd call "a mans clutch" but I'm slightly worried as to how long the cable will last before it snaps as mine (a Scootopia) snapped in under a year using standard springs.
Anyone got any experience of this? I'm open to suggestions on a stronger cable?
Cheers guys.
Stronger clutch springs
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- DigDug
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http://www.torbaylambretta.co.uk/Aircra ... 76473.aspx
Or get one of these where you will not need arms like Popeye.....
https://www.riminilambrettacentre.com/e ... e-47z.html
Or get one of these where you will not need arms like Popeye.....
https://www.riminilambrettacentre.com/e ... e-47z.html
Did you have to do that?
- HxPaul
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Get the aircraft grade cable,but instead of the clutch kit from rimini,get one of these.Its a bit cheaper.https://www.beedspeed.com/lambretta-clu ... rd580c09t4
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Do you need such strong springs, I manage fine on my TS1s with taffspeed/MB/AF GT springs using a 4 plate surflex B.
Just done a home made 5 plate and using AF GT springs.
Just done a home made 5 plate and using AF GT springs.
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DD,
I don't think that when scooterdude asked about stronger springs for a working clutch, he anticipated that the solution was to remove said working clutch and spend another £360 on a replacement clutch.
The clutch easy seems like a good idea, but I must join Gaz P in asking whether such strong springs are required. Surely it is sensible to fit only the strongest springs that are required, rather than the strongest springs that are available.
My contribution to this debate would be a Yamaha clutch lever, which I would recommend regardless for the strength of the springs. It just makes every clutch easier, which is nice.
I don't think that when scooterdude asked about stronger springs for a working clutch, he anticipated that the solution was to remove said working clutch and spend another £360 on a replacement clutch.
The clutch easy seems like a good idea, but I must join Gaz P in asking whether such strong springs are required. Surely it is sensible to fit only the strongest springs that are required, rather than the strongest springs that are available.
My contribution to this debate would be a Yamaha clutch lever, which I would recommend regardless for the strength of the springs. It just makes every clutch easier, which is nice.
Martin
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I fitted one of these to both my scoots as I couldn't get a soft enough feel no matter what I did. They work very well and are much cheaper than getting one from Beedspeed.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111872845386
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111872845386
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No I don't want to spend another £360 on some fancy clutch (but in the grand scheme of things £360 ain't a lot haha) I never knew such a thing as the clutch east existed but to me seems like a simple issue complicator.Knowledge wrote:DD,
I don't think that when scooterdude asked about stronger springs for a working clutch, he anticipated that the solution was to remove said working clutch and spend another £360 on a replacement clutch.
The clutch easy seems like a good idea, but I must join Gaz P in asking whether such strong springs are required. Surely it is sensible to fit only the strongest springs that are required, rather than the strongest springs that are available.
My contribution to this debate would be a Yamaha clutch lever, which I would recommend regardless for the strength of the springs. It just makes every clutch easier, which is nice.
I fitted the Yamaha springs under the guidance of a certain Mr Barlow so who am I to question him? I've got even stronger (LTH I think) springs for my Mugello/Suzuki build, again on Harry's guidance but I've not had time to build that yet.
I think I'm going to go with the aircraft quality cable for now and see how it goes.
And Knowledge when you say a Yamaha lever, which one do I need?
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Interest to know what the clutch is and what it's in.
No question about Harry B's recommendation so it must something with balls that it's in.
Yam levers - I've just got a pr of yam style, straight fit for lambretta, not fitted yet but should be dry fitting tomorrow!
No question about Harry B's recommendation so it must something with balls that it's in.
Yam levers - I've just got a pr of yam style, straight fit for lambretta, not fitted yet but should be dry fitting tomorrow!
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Haha. No Gaz, love the bloke, I could (and have!) stood in his garage and chatted for hours over all things scooter! For me coming into the scooter sceen less than a year ago but from a mechanical background discovering Harry and the fact he lives less than ten miles away is quite a thing, I love the way he uses Suzuki and Yamaha and other jap parts and works out how stuff should and does work, a good example of which is the Delortto PHBH carb we are using on my build is not an expensive boutique Lambretta part but one lifted from a Honda NSR 125 and with the power jet or the Suzuki piston we are using as they are so much better than the ones supplied with the kit.
Anyway back to the build the Yamaha springs are in, it's a TV 175 barrel with the large transfers, apparently there are three different transfer sizes on these and this is the biggest! Ported by Harry, brand new NOS TV 175 head and piston and a very nice genuine TV175 crank. Managed to get the squish down to 1.64mm without a head gasket (which I've been shown how to do properly without buggering about with bits of solder haha) so that's it not a racer by any means but hopefully with a smoooth and usable surge of power.
Anyway back to the build the Yamaha springs are in, it's a TV 175 barrel with the large transfers, apparently there are three different transfer sizes on these and this is the biggest! Ported by Harry, brand new NOS TV 175 head and piston and a very nice genuine TV175 crank. Managed to get the squish down to 1.64mm without a head gasket (which I've been shown how to do properly without buggering about with bits of solder haha) so that's it not a racer by any means but hopefully with a smoooth and usable surge of power.
"Managed to get the squish down to 1.64mm without a head gasket (which I've been shown how to do properly without buggering about with bits of solder"
I'd be interested in this method. how is it done ?
I'd be interested in this method. how is it done ?