Thanks Eddie but it's not sparking from the stator.
To be clearer on the testing,
Red from stator to the white: .545k Ohms.
Green from stator to the white: .449k Ohms.
From what I've read, the red to the white should be lower about 100 but what does this mean? Is the trigger broken or the LT coil?
No Spark
Testing on the other referbished original 6v electronic stator is,
Red to white: . 587k ohms
Green to white: . 493k ohms
Would still like to know if it's the trigger or the LT coil that's broken?
I've put on a SIL electronic set up on and it's working okay so far and with the same ignition switch.
Red to white: . 587k ohms
Green to white: . 493k ohms
Would still like to know if it's the trigger or the LT coil that's broken?
I've put on a SIL electronic set up on and it's working okay so far and with the same ignition switch.
Testing on the other referbished original 6v electronic stator is,
Red to white: . 587k ohms
Green to white: . 493k ohms
Would still like to know if it's the trigger or the LT coil that's broken?
I've put on a SIL electronic set up on and it's working okay so far and with the same ignition switch.
Red to white: . 587k ohms
Green to white: . 493k ohms
Would still like to know if it's the trigger or the LT coil that's broken?
I've put on a SIL electronic set up on and it's working okay so far and with the same ignition switch.
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EddieStone
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Actually, reading your original post reminds me of when I fitted an electronic kit to my Li. It ran for a day then stopped after a mile or so. Turned out to be the alignment on the transducer. I lowered it, then it ran for another mile, so I lowered it a bit more and it's been fine.
Have you checked that? I was amazed how it would either work or it wouldn't - nothing in between.
Have you checked that? I was amazed how it would either work or it wouldn't - nothing in between.
On an original electronic, the pick up test is between red and green and should be approx 100 ohms. The test should also be done with the test leads reversed and the same reading should be achieved. Also green must be isolated from the stator plate (it isn't an earth)Lamaddict wrote:Thanks Eddie but it's not sparking from the stator.
To be clearer on the testing,
Red from stator to the white: .545k Ohms.
Green from stator to the white: .449k Ohms.
From what I've read, the red to the white should be lower about 100 but what does this mean? Is the trigger broken or the LT coil?
Haven't read the article but, re the resistor, it is only in circuit when killing the engine so has no effect any other time. The ignition cut out current path of the original 323901 cdi system differs from the later 323910 type and the resistor is there to limit the current to prevent it damaging the cdi.
^ Thanks, the reading is higher but I still don't know if it's a trigger or the LT coil problem, perhaps they give the same reading?