How to secure stator backplate to coil assembly

[olliewtf]

I have a bit of a frankenstein stator, which ages ago sheared its 3 rivets holding the backplate to the coil assembly.

I had self tapping screws put in to hold it all together.

After a super long time this eventually loosened, causing ignition issues.

Pulled it off, and tapped the 3 holes and fixed bolts (always with loctite too).

After a very short period, the backplate has worn around the bolts, which have subsequently loosened a tad, causing the same problem with loose coil assembly.

Im now uncertain what the best cause of action is to make it all solid.

One idea is to use spring washers to take up a bit of the slack and tighten those bolts as tight as possible. But I have a feeling the same will happen.

Should I just rivet it? Im concerned that now the holes are to large for the rivet to be secure.

Also where do I find the correct rivets? Not clued up on rivets. I know, stupid.

Cheers all.

[servetakid]

Why bother messing around trying to save a knackered back plate?

Either a buy a new stator or buy a new back plate?
If you get a new stator keep the old for the spare pick up and coil.

If you keep bodging this stator there's a good chance you'll knacker your working pickup/coil and take your flywheel with it too.

Jordan

[olliewtf]

Cheers buddy. I really didnt want to take the pickup or lt coil off but Im gonna bite the bullet. I have an indian stator i can put them on. My soldering iron is dead however; what's a safe wattage for soldering pickups etc without risking destroying them? I did have an 18w but it was awful, took way too long to melt solder.

[holty]

you realy want i nice hot iron, so the solder will melt nice and quickly before you have chance to get the pickup or coil too hot, i use and old fashioned copper iron which i bought at a car boot sale, and i use a blow torch to get it nice and hot, make sure all the bits are cleaned, cover in flux first i also like solder with flux in it, tin the parts first of course, then solder together, job done.
holty

[coaster]

...................what's a safe wattage for soldering pickups etc without risking destroying them? I did have an 18w but it was awful, took way too long to melt solder.

35 watts or there abouts, 25 at a pinch but as said, the hotter the better really. Also, secure any loose wires with araldite at vibration is the main enemy. If it can move it will eventually break.

[olliewtf]

Going to maplins tomorrow for a 7.99 30watt iron with a trigger that brings it up to 120 watt. Dont think ill be touching the trigger though!

Thanks all for pointing out the p1551ing obvious; I have a indian stator missing a pickup and lt coil so will transfer these italian items on to it for one super stator.

I will also be securing the earth tags properly and dousing the lot in loctite.

End of ignition woes, he says.

Cheers all. A second opinion over such a trivial matter helps a bunch in most circumstances. Now to sort the other gazzillion issues that are haunting my rough n ready approach to scootering.

Lambrettas eh, dont you just love em / want to throw them off a cliff.

best.

[olliewtf]

So I destroyed my working italian LT coil by trying to get it off the rather old assembly. Buggar. Ordered a BGM lt coil; theyre a good price actually.

So Frankenstein stator has another update that should prove reliable; let's hope the bgm coil doesnt fail!

[EddieStone]

When I worked in the electronics industry we used to use a heat sink to protect heat sensitive devices. Use something like self closing pliers (or needle nosed pliers with a rubber band round the handle) and clip them on the wire between where you're soldering and the sensitive thing. The theory is that the heat goes into the pliers and not the sensitive bit.