I've just split my casings to renew the clutch plates, and I've noticed that the chain is very slack, and the tensioner is at the end of its adjustment.
So I guess it's time to bite the bullet and fit a new chain. I've never done it before, so what's the best way to go about it? I realise that one of the sprockets needs to be removed, but which one's the easiest to remove/refit (bearing in mind I've already removed the clutch plates)?
Thanks!
Chain replacement
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Nerdy Norm
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Nerdy Norm
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Thanks, but isn't that a bit of a bodge? Since I've got the casing open, I might as well replace what is a clearly worn chain - it might even still be the original for all I know. I definitely wouldn't want it snapping on me and locking the wheel, never mind the hassle of splitting the engine again.
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- Ilango
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Remove the driven (clutch bell) sprocket to change the chain. It is easier than locking the crank and undoing the drive sprocket bolt.Nerdy Norm wrote:I've just split my casings to renew the clutch plates, and I've noticed that the chain is very slack, and the tensioner is at the end of its adjustment.
So I guess it's time to bite the bullet and fit a new chain. I've never done it before, so what's the best way to go about it? I realise that one of the sprockets needs to be removed, but which one's the easiest to remove/refit (bearing in mind I've already removed the clutch plates)?
Thanks!
- DigDug
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Nope -- with some sprocket combinations you had to use a "stretched chain" before the advent of the pull-downs.Nerdy Norm wrote:Thanks, but isn't that a bit of a bodge? Since I've got the casing open, I might as well replace what is a clearly worn chain - it might even still be the original for all I know. I definitely wouldn't want it snapping on me and locking the wheel, never mind the hassle of splitting the engine again.
Did you have to do that?
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Nerdy Norm
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Thanks fellas.
I know about the "stretched chain" thing, but I would have thought that it wasn't an ideal situation, and that a new, non-stretched chain should be more reliable - is that not correct?
I know about the "stretched chain" thing, but I would have thought that it wasn't an ideal situation, and that a new, non-stretched chain should be more reliable - is that not correct?
Lambretta LI125 Series 2, Lambretta LI150 Series 3, Lambretta J100 Cento, LML Star 150 2T
- HxPaul
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+1.Remove and replace with an Iwis chain.This way you can still use your standard type push up tensioner.I use Iwis chains in both of my scooters and neither have stretched in use over thousands of miles.With what you save on getting a decent pull down tensioner you can get a new chain.Ilango wrote:Remove the driven (clutch bell) sprocket to change the chain. It is easier than locking the crank and undoing the drive sprocket bolt.Nerdy Norm wrote:I've just split my casings to renew the clutch plates, and I've noticed that the chain is very slack, and the tensioner is at the end of its adjustment.
So I guess it's time to bite the bullet and fit a new chain. I've never done it before, so what's the best way to go about it? I realise that one of the sprockets needs to be removed, but which one's the easiest to remove/refit (bearing in mind I've already removed the clutch plates)?
Thanks!
Last edited by HxPaul on Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
yes if its of comparable or better quality scootopia do a nice italian chains for £14 not sure they have 80, s any more but worth asking also justlambretta sell them and the owners a member on hereNerdy Norm wrote:Thanks fellas.
I know about the "stretched chain" thing, but I would have thought that it wasn't an ideal situation, and that a new, non-stretched chain should be more reliable - is that not correct?
We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm
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Nerdy Norm
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I've ordered an Iwis 80 link chain, fingers crossed it's the right one 
Lambretta LI125 Series 2, Lambretta LI150 Series 3, Lambretta J100 Cento, LML Star 150 2T
