I always run about 3 mm clearance I use a 5 plate crown wheel by cam lam (no you cant fit 5 nomal plates in there with standard steels) a 5 plate pressure plate of ebay came with springs and a standard center spider with the thinest top plate I could find think its 2mm is I changed the steels to scootopia 1.2mm ones I could get a 5th standard cork in there and have some seperation , how ever I dont have clutch slip so why bother
I used this combo albeit from a diffent supplier on my last TS1 with no problems over 3 yrs no slip at all
First ride - heavy clutch
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If you get some GT85 from Halfrauds and spray it down the outers of all nylon lined cables, you'll feel a considerable differencedave411 wrote:I though the idea of using lined cables was because the dont need lubrication

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/tools-m ... ogId=10151
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- corrado
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...or you could try a std set up of 4 x 3.5 plates, 3 x 1.5 steels and a 3mm top plate, that's 2mm thinner than your current set up. That's the cheaper option, unless you already have the thin plates. I'd try and avoid using 1mm steels wherever possible. LTH springs seem like an in between choice on stiffness re std or upgraded like MB.hendy wrote: I was thinking about replacing all the friction plates with 2.5mm BGM ones and replacing all the steels with 1.5mm ones. That way, I'll reduce the spring compression by 3.0mm. Is this too much? if it is, I could fit a 3.0mm top steel thereby reducing it by only 2.0mm.
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Sorted now.
In the end I decided to keep it as a 5 plate clutch. Not because I have a powerful motor but because it means I can have a lighter clutch.
I began simply by replacing all 5 corks with bgm 2.6mm ones; the lever was as light as a feather but it slipped badly. This was no big surprise.
Next I replaced 2 of the 4 x 1mm steels with 1.5mm ones. I checked thickness and the 1mm ones were actually 0.9mm.
Anyway, it's now very light at the lever but doesn't slip. Only thing is I don't know the clearance as I basically just messed about until I was happy.
Anyway I hope this is some use to someone as I'm trying to show that 5 plates can be used (cheaply) not only to handle high power but also simply to make for a nicer ride.
In the end I decided to keep it as a 5 plate clutch. Not because I have a powerful motor but because it means I can have a lighter clutch.
I began simply by replacing all 5 corks with bgm 2.6mm ones; the lever was as light as a feather but it slipped badly. This was no big surprise.
Next I replaced 2 of the 4 x 1mm steels with 1.5mm ones. I checked thickness and the 1mm ones were actually 0.9mm.
Anyway, it's now very light at the lever but doesn't slip. Only thing is I don't know the clearance as I basically just messed about until I was happy.
Anyway I hope this is some use to someone as I'm trying to show that 5 plates can be used (cheaply) not only to handle high power but also simply to make for a nicer ride.
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Did you stick with the springs that you started out with?hendy wrote:Sorted now.
In the end I decided to keep it as a 5 plate clutch. Not because I have a powerful motor but because it means I can have a lighter clutch.
I began simply by replacing all 5 corks with bgm 2.6mm ones; the lever was as light as a feather but it slipped badly. This was no big surprise.
Next I replaced 2 of the 4 x 1mm steels with 1.5mm ones. I checked thickness and the 1mm ones were actually 0.9mm.
Anyway, it's now very light at the lever but doesn't slip. Only thing is I don't know the clearance as I basically just messed about until I was happy.
Anyway I hope this is some use to someone as I'm trying to show that 5 plates can be used (cheaply) not only to handle high power but also simply to make for a nicer ride.
Did you have to do that?
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Yes, just left them alone.DigDug wrote:
Did you stick with the springs that you started out with?
Also, before I did this i checked the cable friction using the method someone (maybe you) suggested and it was fine
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I was advised to leave the 1.5 ones at the bottom and any thinner ones at the top. Where did you position yours?hendy wrote:Sorted now.
Next I replaced 2 of the 4 x 1mm steels with 1.5mm ones. I checked thickness and the 1mm ones were actually 0.9mm.
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Ok, you've caught me out, I'm a bodgercorrado wrote:I was advised to leave the 1.5 ones at the bottom and any thinner ones at the top. Where did you position yours?hendy wrote:Sorted now.
Next I replaced 2 of the 4 x 1mm steels with 1.5mm ones. I checked thickness and the 1mm ones were actually 0.9mm.

The only plate I had with long angled tangs was 1mm so I had to use that at the bottom. I know I shouldn't have and that I'm a bad man, but I'll put it right later, now that I've proven my theory.
My total set up is:
CamLam lightweight 47tooth sprocket
standard spider
standard basket
2.6mm cork
1mm long angled tang
2.6mm cork
1.5mm steel
2.6mm cork
1.5mm steel
2.6mm cork
1mm steel
2.6mm cork
2mm top steel
standard spings
next time I'm in there (300miles from now) I'll change it to:
CamLam lightweight 47tooth sprocket
standard spider
standard basket
2.6mm cork
1.5mm long angled tang
2.6mm cork
1.5mm steel
2.6mm cork
1mm steel
2.6mm cork
1mm steel
2.6mm cork
2mm top steel
standard springs
What I've managed to do is build a nice lightweight clutch with 5 corks for about £35, or at least it would have cost that much if I had spent money experimenting. But that's half the fun isn't it?
by the way, the lightweight sprocket was about £80 (from memory), but is unnecessary.