wobbly rear hub

[hendy]

I've noticed that my rear hub (series 3 LI) can be wobbled - VERY slightly.

I don't think it's bad enough for an MOT failure (next Saturday for its first one ever), but I don't like it anyway.

New layshaft, torqued up properly, but when I removed the hub for the rebuild, the cone was stuck fast, so I just left it in place.

I'm going to take it off and remove the cone one way or another. My question is twofold:

1. Should I just fit a new cone as a matter of course?
2. Are all cones the same? I've seen CamLam describe theirs as being suitable for an Indian hub.

thanks

[monument7]

Cone comes off easy if you tap a screwdriver into the slot, it could need a shim behind it so hub locks tighter onto it, also check domed nut isn't bottoming out inside.
Best I can suggest mate.

[hendy]

I tried tapping with a screwdriver but it was stuck fast.

Dome nut is worth checking though. I've got a couple of spares.

[bristolmod]

the old WSM actually states somewhere that a very slight detectable movement of the hub is acceptable ( grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and see if you can rock it).

Trouble is that they don't define what is "slight"

If its any consolation, all of my bikes over the years have had very slight movement (NOT to be confused with your end plate being loose!!)

Chris

[hendy]

Thanks Chris.

The movement is slight. My definition of which is that I can just feel it but can't see or hear it.

I'll leave it alone until I've got nothing better to do.

[bristolmod]

re your comment about different cones

There ARE differences on the tapers- 3 different taperes I think from early S1's to the last models- just be aware that you have the correct cone for the hub. If you've had no trouble to date then i would imagine its the correct cone.

Chris

[hendy]

Thanks Chris, but I bought the bike in such a mess that I couldn't even push it in a straight line. So for me to say that I'd had no problems would be a bit misleading to say the least.

I THINK I have the original 1964 innocenti hub. Do you know how I can tell or be sure I'm buying the correct one? They seem to be advertised as all being the same on s3 apart from camlam.

[bristolmod]

three types of hubs/ cones were used.

1) early S1's had a 20 degree taper- probably none left anywhere now.
2) everything else up to the intro of GP had an 11 degree taper with a hub part number commencing 1904.... or 1994.... This is probably yours.
3) GP onwards 8 degree taper with hub code 1954....

[hendy]

Thanks Chris.

Excellent answer.

[shocky]

Does it still move when warm ?