AF race crank

[Supereibar]

I bought a DL200 rebuilt and polished engine from a renouned dealer about six years ago. The engine has been on my daily rider since then. Little by little, the different parts of the engine and body of the scooter have been either getting worn or breaking up.
Things that have been going badly over the years have been the following:

1- It was a points engine. Well the contact breaker in the points split in half.

2- Decided on a Varitronic. The flywheel broke. Tino said that the problem was due to the AF race crank being too revvy. Obviously the dealer who sold the engine to me said it was due to the poor manufacturing of the Varitronic flywheel. OK. (I am not critizising. Just explaining)

3-The vibration split one of the ends of the mag flange. The lower protrusion, where the screws held the cylinder cowling.

4-Vibration again (and don't know if this is a common problem with DL200 engines) eroded the inlet 22mm manifold. The carb stop helding together.

5-Seals gone two times in the past four years on a regular road use. Also, the oil does not come out massively, it just comes out in the time frame of a two week daily use.

Doctor, is there a problem with my crank or there is a problem with my crank? Is this all a common problem with DL200 engines or is it just my case?

This has made me get a little bored of this engine, so wonder if you guys could give me an idea as to what to do with it. It is now sitting in my workshop waiting its time to get stored for a couple of years.

J.

P.S: No. I am not selling it

[Diablo]

Don't know if your crank is twisted or not. What I will say is that after fitting one that twisted straight away many moons ago and not exactly hearing what I wanted from Af I had it trued and welded.
Every AF crank I've fitted since has been welded and I've never had a problem with them since.

[Lam-d]

I fitted one of those said cranks that i got from another reputable who claimed to have checked and trued it ,i fitted it to my rapidio 200 and the topend knocked and banged and rattled something fierce so i took it out and put an sil 200 crank and it ran smooth ....i have just fitted said crank(only 200 miles on it) to my Ts1 225 after a bearing rebuilt and its still knocking and banging (i thought it my have gone away "out of sight out of mind" syndrom) so i am assuming it is out of true and i should get it checked and welded .........also while setting up the carb (the bike was running for about 15 mins) i noticed that the casing was boiling hot too hot to touch i have not run the engine since until i get some advice as to why its so hot and getting any info off some dealers on a sat afternoon is a tad hard and i appreicate the fact that it is a busy time for them ....so any help would be geatful

[Supereibar]

I have to say, I forgot, that I also sent the crank to that reputable dealer when I did th first rebuilt (I must say they where very courteous and prompt with the job, also they didn't charge me anything to make it true and balance it again)...

Diablo, where does the crank need to be welded? Excuse my ignorance.

Thanks to both for your answers.

Jaime

[sean brady scooters]

the big end pin to webs

[byron]

I bought a used AF "Race" crank, 500 gentle running in miles on it. one side was just on tolerance, the other was 2½ times over... imo the only race one will win is the shortest time it takes to twist
it's just not good enough

[Matty]

Once, during a phone call to Ralph Saxelby, he called AF cranks 'Chubby Checker' cranks because 'they twist, then you shout 'b@5t@rd!'

[stew]

Once, during a phone call to Ralph Saxelby, he called AF cranks 'Chubby Checker' cranks because 'they twist, then you shout 'b@5t@rd!'

[Lam-d]

Lads Can you recomend anyone who would check and weld my crank and what sort of price range (pm me if your shy about giving out prices :biggrin: ).. getting it sorted is the cheaper option than tossing it far away over the back fence and getting another one