Best brake pads for Innocenti inboard disk brake

[victor]

Rebuilding my disk brake recently I got some new pads.

I'm quite sure they were "sintered newfren", which is also what I believe I had previously.

The new ones however was absolutely rubbish. Looking at them, they look as if they have a very large amount of brass in the compound, being almost yellow, and extremely slippery. The feeling is that of metal, and they are practically worthless fitted.

I found one of the old ones which still has this brass material in the compound albeit visually much less and fitted that as the outer pad, which improved braking somewhat.

My question is, which pads "out there" provides the most friction? It doesnt matter if they wear out quickly but I really need good grip....

Cheers V

[warts]

Since asbestos was banned for use in brakes, bedding in has become much more important. All the more so if the pad had some pretensions to a "performance " application.
It could be that the problem with your pads lies with insufficient or incorrect break in, and a bit of searching for the recommended procedure will enable you to sort them out with out further spending.

[victor]

The bedding in is normally to make sure they get the same shape as the disk, should it have any groves etc. I've sanded these ones before fitting, and the disc is new, smooth like a baby's arse...

[joey]

..these are the best pads ever.. after the citreon BX ? pads... its probably poor service/adjustment or shitty cable....

[warts]

Quote - "The bedding in is normally to make sure they get the same shape as the disk" - Unquote.

Not its not.

I suggest you look it up, you may have to intrude on a car site, but what you have done is not what bedding in is about.
The bedding in process is about the final cure of the binders in the pad compound matrix, which has to be done correctly otherwise they will never achieve their correct characteristics.
The process is not always the same for every pad from every maker.
Some manufacturers say to do a series of more or less crash stops until the pads are smoking, others say to progressively build up and not over heat the pads.
Obviously the two are mutually exclusive.
The most common recommendation I have come across is the former.

Sanding the pads will almost certainly have exacerbated the problem, because it is unlikely you will still have perfectly flat, perfectly parallel pads. You have likely just created the opposite effect to what you hoped and are just running on high spots.
They will also contain trapped abrasive from the "sanding" which could cause premature wear to the disc and pad.

ps
the increased amount of visible metal in the pad is to help delay the heat build up, and would tend to indicate a high performance application.
Could it be the internal disc is not capable of exerting sufficient pressure for this type of pad compound? Mechanical or hydraulic?
If mechanical, have you taken every step to ensure that it is working at peak efficiency?

[victor]

..these are the best pads ever.. after the citreon BX ? pads... its probably poor service/adjustment or shitty cable....

Adjustment correct, hydraulic conversion, no trapped air and lever stops half way to the throttle grip, and is firm.

[joey]

..mines cable reverse pull.. stops dead with 2 fingers...

[victor]

..mines cable reverse pull.. stops dead with 2 fingers...

Mine didn't stop dead previously but it was incredibly much better than now

[victor]

Well, that's what my beemer mechanic told me after having fitted my new pads there, pointing out the groves in the discs and that the pads were going to "ride high" before shaping in, can very well be wrong but made sense when he explained it.

Regarding the sanding, this was done on an absolutely parallell surface, and I thoroughly washed them in brake cleaner afterwords.

Honestly, these pads (not the newfren ones) are ridiculously slippery, unfortunately I only saved / can find one of the old ones which is now fitted and did slightly increase performance.

I'm going to brake the s**t out of them and see if that makes any difference

Thanks, V

Quote - "The bedding in is normally to make sure they get the same shape as the disk" - Unquote.

Not its not.

I suggest you look it up, you may have to intrude on a car site, but what you have done is not what bedding in is about.
The bedding in process is about the final cure of the binders in the pad compound matrix, which has to be done correctly otherwise they will never achieve their correct characteristics.
The process is not always the same for every pad from every maker.
Some manufacturers say to do a series of more or less crash stops until the pads are smoking, others say to progressively build up and not over heat the pads.
Obviously the two are mutually exclusive.
The most common recommendation I have come across is the former.

Sanding the pads will almost certainly have exacerbated the problem, because it is unlikely you will still have perfectly flat, perfectly parallel pads. You have likely just created the opposite effect to what you hoped and are just running on high spots.
They will also contain trapped abrasive from the "sanding" which could cause premature wear to the disc and pad.

ps
the increased amount of visible metal in the pad is to help delay the heat build up, and would tend to indicate a high performance application.
Could it be the internal disc is not capable of exerting sufficient pressure for this type of pad compound? Mechanical or hydraulic?
If mechanical, have you taken every step to ensure that it is working at peak efficiency?