Tameni made PM Tuning crank, 107mm rod failure issue....
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Donnie
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Interesting and timely as im in the market for a new standard length crank for my gt 186 ill be building over the next few months. Used to love the old mec eur gp race cranks but believe they aren't made any more?
Donnie.
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olliewtf
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Can everyone just stop talking now im freaking out! What i find confusing is that im unsure what is a mec crank and what isnt? I built my scoot with a standard length ricambio ricardo gp crank with bronze conrod. Been in for probs nearly 1000 miles... Black webs. I assumed this was a mec crank... Are they all from the same factory then distributed to other companies ie ricambio who re badge them? Whats the story? And which can we agree might be suspect?
What i also find troubling is that because these cranks are distributed this way, this seems to me to make it exceedingly difficult to challenge the manufacturer and potentially recoup losses if your entire engine is destroyed??!
What i also find troubling is that because these cranks are distributed this way, this seems to me to make it exceedingly difficult to challenge the manufacturer and potentially recoup losses if your entire engine is destroyed??!
I know, TAMENI produce nearly all cranks for all distibutors. ( I am only talking about the black ones !)
The black cranks webs are well known and have proved themselfs over the last 20 years on a lot of engines with different setups.
What makes a good reliable crank?
In my opinion it must have a good rod with minimium 15/16mm conrod width at the big end and,
and use silver cage roller with minimum 16 neeldes to be capable with the high load/performance of all possible conversions/cylinders out there.
Using this mentioned parts above a crank will round about 250-300 GBP.
Obviously the market do not need such a crank, so they will be offered with cheaper rods an rollers. Sometime without using rod washers !!
Be aware of useing them, they will fall. Sure.
Using AF blank webs or black TAMENI/MEC webs with best rod/roller will give us a very good crank.
Using full circle webs almost needs inserts for balancing, this can be an issue, must not. If done correctly the best solution referring balance and smoothness.
But we all have seen inserts going out of the webs.
So my conclusion is: I use AF/ TAMENI black webs with correct crank pin/web tolerance and OEM/aftermarket 110mm rod (16mm width) with minimum 16-18 needles.
This sometime needs a 1mm maghousing spacer, thats all.
Never broke a crank, touch wood !
PS: using 110mm YAMAHA Blaster/Banschee gives still more reliability: this rod uses 22mm small end bearing instead of 20mm !
and use minimum 1:30 mixture
The black cranks webs are well known and have proved themselfs over the last 20 years on a lot of engines with different setups.
What makes a good reliable crank?
In my opinion it must have a good rod with minimium 15/16mm conrod width at the big end and,
and use silver cage roller with minimum 16 neeldes to be capable with the high load/performance of all possible conversions/cylinders out there.
Using this mentioned parts above a crank will round about 250-300 GBP.
Obviously the market do not need such a crank, so they will be offered with cheaper rods an rollers. Sometime without using rod washers !!
Be aware of useing them, they will fall. Sure.
Using AF blank webs or black TAMENI/MEC webs with best rod/roller will give us a very good crank.
Using full circle webs almost needs inserts for balancing, this can be an issue, must not. If done correctly the best solution referring balance and smoothness.
But we all have seen inserts going out of the webs.
So my conclusion is: I use AF/ TAMENI black webs with correct crank pin/web tolerance and OEM/aftermarket 110mm rod (16mm width) with minimum 16-18 needles.
This sometime needs a 1mm maghousing spacer, thats all.
Never broke a crank, touch wood !
PS: using 110mm YAMAHA Blaster/Banschee gives still more reliability: this rod uses 22mm small end bearing instead of 20mm !
and use minimum 1:30 mixture