ok complete mystery here....
indian gp casings, assembled brake so its loose, put hub back on tight spins freely
pumped brake to aline cam, hub spins freely, removed carefully tightened down cam.
put hub back on tightened and hub locks up on brake shoes........
if the cam is loose its fine, cam locked down its binds on shoes. shoes move freely with cam loose or tight. no difference at all. shoes are same width as old shoes
have tried both boxenstop cams with li and gp cams and have shaved 1mm of the shoes
3 hours later no dice!
WTF is going on??????
Jockey Boxenstop rear brake problem
- jonashford
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Im curious how this would be achieved????lockman69 wrote:Pretty sure that the cam is supposed to move and not be locked down tight...
Sound like a gud theory a floating set up should allow the shoes to centre themselves better?
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The cam needs to be fully tight when you have achieved the correct setting, not loose at all. It can take time to set up
But with time it gets there. Follow the instructions and ensure you have the correct brake pivot.
Patience..... I semi tightened the pivot until I found the best point.

Patience..... I semi tightened the pivot until I found the best point.
- jonashford
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yes thats correct, it works fine just takes a bit of time to get right. Ive done 4 of them now quite simple takes around 15 minutes
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Instructions from site advises step 2 tighten by hand. Step 4 advises that once you have set the correct position tighten fully with Allen key and spanner. Answers on a postcard........ Mine is tight but would like to know if I have it wrong 

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I have the kit on an Indian gp, tried the larger pivot and couldn't get the hub to fit over the shoes, tried the smaller pivot and it would fit but the smaller pivot appeared to be circular ie no adjustment , whereas the larger pivot has a defined "stretched" shape which when turned adjusts the fitting of the shoes, or is my eyesight worse than I thought, either way struggling to get the best out of the kit, still nowhere near as good as my vespa rear brake. I have checked the hub and it is definitely not warped.
If you have followed the steps in http://www.jockeys-boxenstop.de/shop/me ... ke_kit.pdf, a couple of things to check:
1). After Step 4, if the hub is "rubbing" or hard to move: Ensure that you take the bike off of the rear tire stand after you have tightened down the hub. If you try and spin the wheel while it is on the stand, there is a good chance the tire might be rubbing on the tire stand slightly, mimicking the feeling of brake shoe resistance. This is because once you have fully seated the hub onto the layshaft, it has been moved in just enough to rub on the rear tire stand.
2). In Step 2, the pivot post has to be tight enough that it will not move freely unless you apply enough pressure with your hand. Too loose, and you will lose the adjustment. Too hard and it will not be able to center and find the proper adjustment.
1). After Step 4, if the hub is "rubbing" or hard to move: Ensure that you take the bike off of the rear tire stand after you have tightened down the hub. If you try and spin the wheel while it is on the stand, there is a good chance the tire might be rubbing on the tire stand slightly, mimicking the feeling of brake shoe resistance. This is because once you have fully seated the hub onto the layshaft, it has been moved in just enough to rub on the rear tire stand.
2). In Step 2, the pivot post has to be tight enough that it will not move freely unless you apply enough pressure with your hand. Too loose, and you will lose the adjustment. Too hard and it will not be able to center and find the proper adjustment.