Yeah problem im finding is with the top bearings. Ive got a twin Mito disc and brembo with anti dive and its smashing the top to bits.
Ive tried with the cage and then the loose ball method but after a couple of races everythings loose again and the balls are getting mashed. Bottom is ok but its the top that takes all the hammer
Taper bearing conversion?
Speed Demon wrote:Jason's right, the problem is the top not the bottom. My old chop used to eat top bearings due to the rake angle and riding 2-up. My mate Paul got both a taper roller bottom made (didn't really work and dropped the forks too far through the headstock) and a special top set using a thrust bearing with bigger balls. That worked and is still in it.
Any more details ,as i am going to use a top power motor and a Mito twin disc .I can see this killing the top race .Has anyone tried loose ball bearings in the top ???
- sean brady scooters
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fair enough ,but can only assume that because the top bearings are smaller the wear on them dictates that they need checking and adjusting and servicing more often especially on chops or scoots with as you say anti dive set ups ...so ,a tapered bearing conversion may help with this ..so long as it also is checked and adjusted often 
if any one can make these ,we will be interested for sure

if any one can make these ,we will be interested for sure

Sean Brady Scooters - 01765 690 698
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Does anyone have the internal dia of the top of the fork tube handy and i'll look into it. Got forks here but no frame
Just had a quick check of available bearings and for a 30mm I/D to fit over the forks it will be a 62mm O/D so looks like the top of the fork tube would need cut back and a sleeve with a cup on top to take the outer race slid over or into the tube and welded. Does that make sense as it's the easiest "fix". Simlpes
Just had a quick check of available bearings and for a 30mm I/D to fit over the forks it will be a 62mm O/D so looks like the top of the fork tube would need cut back and a sleeve with a cup on top to take the outer race slid over or into the tube and welded. Does that make sense as it's the easiest "fix". Simlpes
Just looked at a new standard race ,If you dismantle two races the you could have enough bearings to have a loose set for the top ,in theory this could be a better .I don`t think this would be as good as a Tapered bearing Set
I'm sure Stuart Day had a taper bearing in the top of his group 6 back when I raced and Paul had said he was looking at a way of doing it for the group 4 bike which if possible,would make it ideal for road use.
i put a taper bearing from a VW gearbox on the bottom of my lammy fork when i put it into my sportique frame but it still used a modified ET3 bearing for the top. and the fork lower needed machining a little to get it to fit. look up my build thread.
Last edited by gpts1 on Thu May 15, 2014 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Yeah ive been doing that Ted, two standards stripped down give enough loose balls but they still dont last long.TED CRUD wrote:Just looked at a new standard race ,If you dismantle two races the you could have enough bearings to have a loose set for the top ,in theory this could be a better .I don`t think this would be as good as a Tapered bearing Set
OH Bugger lol
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Ask on the race forum Gary.......
Are you tightening the bearings to correct tightness with right tool? .... Mine were regularly loosening until I bought a proper set of the correct spanners ...... Never had an issue since!!
Are you tightening the bearings to correct tightness with right tool? .... Mine were regularly loosening until I bought a proper set of the correct spanners ...... Never had an issue since!!
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