Run in Period
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CPH Lambretta
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He'd just pay someone else to do it for him 
Slow is the new fast!
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Strummer10
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Great thanks ALL, we seemed to be agreed at 100 miles overall and i'm nearly there with this. I just wanted some fun on my new GP with a Dave Webster Stage 4 for a while before succcumbing to fitting a kitted top end. I'd actually forgotten how torque'y the DW Stage 4 steel barrel was in the day....its way cool off the mark (but i am being careful and its onlt got a standard 22mm carb through the airbox with 125 main jet). Does the carb set up sound ok do you think ?
Once i get a few miles on it and do the suggested oil change at 250 miles (good call, get rid of all those nasty metal chaffings) i was gonna bang a PHBH 30mm on it with remote filter, which i can probably hang onto when kitting up further down the line...cheers
Once i get a few miles on it and do the suggested oil change at 250 miles (good call, get rid of all those nasty metal chaffings) i was gonna bang a PHBH 30mm on it with remote filter, which i can probably hang onto when kitting up further down the line...cheers
New bearings and rings?
I would just get on it and thrash the life out of it, teaching them when they are young is the best way. Running in a new bore is very different to running in rings because when your running a new bore in you are taking the roughness/peaks from the bore.
running in to slow and careful may not result in a seize but there is a good chance the run in time will take much longer because you are not producing the heat and ware necessary, You want heat and wear to occur not a glazing effect on the bore.
Running in rings is just a case of getting the motor up to temperature then go out and ride it like you would normally ride, the harder its run in the better in the long term!
s**t engines result from run in wrapped in cotton wool.
I would just get on it and thrash the life out of it, teaching them when they are young is the best way. Running in a new bore is very different to running in rings because when your running a new bore in you are taking the roughness/peaks from the bore.
running in to slow and careful may not result in a seize but there is a good chance the run in time will take much longer because you are not producing the heat and ware necessary, You want heat and wear to occur not a glazing effect on the bore.
Running in rings is just a case of getting the motor up to temperature then go out and ride it like you would normally ride, the harder its run in the better in the long term!
s**t engines result from run in wrapped in cotton wool.
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Strummer10
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cheers Eden, I've done 90 miles in a controlled manner thus far, now I can have some fun then !!! woo hoo
Dont forget to re torque the head as well new rings need "normalizing "in there grain structure so heating up and cooling down but not to rapidly or microscop bits will chip off ,
We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm
- victor
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I believe in the warm up go around the neighbourhood rule too. A 1000 miles is absolutely nothing for an engine that should be able to do 100 times that easily. If any measurable wear was to be noticed in that short distance, the engine would be worn out in no-time. I've never more than taking it a bit easy for the first tank or so to make sure everything's been bolted up properly and never had any problems.storkfoot wrote:Unless I was certain that the piston to bore clearance was, say, 4 thou. of an inch (that's about 0.9mm) I'd do a hell of a lot longer than that on an iron barrel. The manual said 1000 miles for a reason. But the way you run it in is the really important issue.
Nicasil/alloy barrels are a different case entirely.
- Muttley McLadd
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If you've got a Dave Webster stage 4 top end, why would you want a different kit? That, with a 30 mil carb and a half decent pipe (Micron, for instance..) should keep with most other scooters without costing you the price of a kidney.Strummer10 wrote:Great thanks ALL, we seemed to be agreed at 100 miles overall and i'm nearly there with this. I just wanted some fun on my new GP with a Dave Webster Stage 4 for a while before succcumbing to fitting a kitted top end. I'd actually forgotten how torque'y the DW Stage 4 steel barrel was in the day....its way cool off the mark (but i am being careful and its onlt got a standard 22mm carb through the airbox with 125 main jet). Does the carb set up sound ok do you think ?
Once i get a few miles on it and do the suggested oil change at 250 miles (good call, get rid of all those nasty metal chaffings) i was gonna bang a PHBH 30mm on it with remote filter, which i can probably hang onto when kitting up further down the line...cheers
CakeAndArseParty
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I Googled and found thisMuppet wrote:normalizing?
http://www.cashenblades.com/heattreatment.html
There's also a bit on Wikipedia but I get the impression that the temperatures needed are way above operating temps, you would hope that this is all done in the manufacturing stage under proper controlled conditions
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Tractorman
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Not sure about this, shocky. I would have thought that all the heat treatment processes would have already been done to the rings.shocky wrote:Dont forget to re torque the head as well new rings need "normalizing "in there grain structure so heating up and cooling down but not to rapidly or microscop bits will chip off ,
