Having just had a bugger of a job fitting new large silent blocks to a 1960 Series 2 engine, thought I'd pass on some personal experience to help anyone in future. One went in a treat with heat (I'm lucky enough to have a laser digital thermometer to check the temp of the casing), but the other fecker was a bugger. On closer examination, I found that the rib between the two engine mount lugs was quite high on one side and when the correct tool was used, so that the large thick steel disc was tilted off kilter. This meant that as the silent block was drawn into the lug it was kicked off centre, meaning the silent block was being pulled off kilter. Fecker seized after about a quarter of an inch. So applied heat and tried to withdraw it. b@5t@rd was a s tight as a Scotsman. Got a mate to help and in getting the silent block out, fecked me silent block tool, but quickly repaired. Got the new silent block out and very,very carefully Dremelled out the ridge that had been created inside the lug. A light Scotch brighting and a very light smear of copper grease to help the mount back in sorted it out without affecting the interference fit. With hindsight, I would have measured very carefully the outside diameter of the new mount against the ID of the lug, and taken a view on fetitling. Wouldn't want anyone to feck a set of casings, so take care lads. Be as methodical as you can. Don't expect everything to fit correctly and be of the correct measurement.
and it's surprising with a fancy tool like I have
(laser dig thermo) how much you need to heat casings to drop bearings in. I always put bearings in fridge/freezer for a good 24 hours prior to fitting, and find that with my fantastic tool
you often need not go higher than 120degrees C to fit any part to a lammie engine.
