Is anyone using or tried fitting one of these on a Largeframe Vespa with any success - and if so, are they any good?
It looks f***ing gorgeous - but may yet prove an expensive mistake!
BGM SC/F12 Rear Shock
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cartmel808
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- Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:35 am
- Main scooter: 1975 Vespa Rally 200 Femsa
- Location: Durham, England
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Bought a BGM SC//F12 Rear Shock (the type with the piggy back reservoir), and this afternoon while the missus & kids were out, I nipped in the garage & bolted it on to the Motovespa 150s I'm restoring. The problem is though - that with it have the attached reservoir thingy, there doesn't seem to be very much clearance to the frame & I'm concerned that the shock will foul against the body.
Is anyone using or tried fitting one of these on a Largeframe Vespa with any success - and if so, are they any good?
It looks f***ing gorgeous - but may yet prove an expensive mistake!
Is anyone using or tried fitting one of these on a Largeframe Vespa with any success - and if so, are they any good?
It looks f***ing gorgeous - but may yet prove an expensive mistake!
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GLscoot
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- Posts: 805
- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:05 pm
- Main scooter: Vespa GS150
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Yeh, I looked at that one as well, It looks so good, but opted for this one instead. The Moto 150s is that the one thats very similar to the GS160 frame. It would be easier with a picture, but without looking you could grind away some of the shock bolt tube on the engine, grind some of the area around the main engine bolt (pictures below) and possibly move the mount at the top a little as well, there both rubber mounted so have some tolerance to movement. The other option is to hammer the section of the frame so the reservoire doesn't hit the frame. Remember to tape it up so you don't scratch all the paint.
lml vespa engine by GLscoot, on Flickr
IMG_3214 by GLscoot, on Flickr
IMG_3213 by GLscoot, on Flickr
Grinding a little of these sections allows you to move the engine ever so slightly and won't need a lot removed, but remember this may move alignment of rear wheel slightly. So you may need to remove a little of the rear hub at the studs so the wheel sits back in line with the front.
lml vespa engine by GLscoot, on Flickr
IMG_3214 by GLscoot, on Flickr
IMG_3213 by GLscoot, on Flickr
Grinding a little of these sections allows you to move the engine ever so slightly and won't need a lot removed, but remember this may move alignment of rear wheel slightly. So you may need to remove a little of the rear hub at the studs so the wheel sits back in line with the front.
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cartmel808
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- Posts: 467
- Joined: Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:35 am
- Main scooter: 1975 Vespa Rally 200 Femsa
- Location: Durham, England
- Contact:
Yes - it is the one wit a similar frame to a GS160 (sorry, but haven't worked out how to post pictures on here yet)....
Bolted the motor into the frame today & the clearance on the shock looks better now that everything's fixed & in place - also checked the wheel alignment which looks to be good (so no need for any of scary grinding or hammering...phew!
)
Will I also need to use a spacer nut above the top shock mount rubber?
Bolted the motor into the frame today & the clearance on the shock looks better now that everything's fixed & in place - also checked the wheel alignment which looks to be good (so no need for any of scary grinding or hammering...phew!
)Will I also need to use a spacer nut above the top shock mount rubber?
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GLscoot
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- Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2012 10:05 pm
- Main scooter: Vespa GS150
- Contact:
Im not 100% sure on that as I have not done the Spanish frame conversion. Its best to do a complete dry build with forks, stand ect and from the stance you should be able to see what spacer bolt or rubber mount you need.