Clutch drag

[dennis]

Options,had clutch slip so put new steels corks and springs in,now got drag, do i put thinner steels in or thinner top plate, this only happens after a few miles when the engine is hot, couple of friends suffer with this aswel, steels are standard 2.5. or do i adjust clutch until it slips then then let it off a little, this would mean no play at lever.

[Minority]

Options,had clutch slip so put new steels corks and springs in,now got drag, do i put thinner steels in or thinner top plate, this only happens after a few miles when the engine is hot, couple of friends suffer with this aswel, steels are standard 2.5. or do i adjust clutch until it slips then then let it off a little, this would mean no play at lever.

Did you check the clearance when you built the clutch? If so what was it.
There is so much variation in components and tolerances that the only way to be sure is to check on assembly.
I think from memory (although I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong ) that the clearance needs to be a minimum of 1.5mm to avoid drag.
Another possibility is the amount of lever travel you have being slightly less than standard. I know that with Sundance grips and aftermarket levers on my scooter I wasn't getting the full amount of movement at the clutch lever on the chaincase. Solved this by shortening the lever by 10mm.
I

[dennis]

Yep,checked gap with compresser and an old broken case cover i cut in half, gap was 1.5 and tight 2mm, have got a new deeper crown wheel aswel and thinner clutch nut to allow bell to go deeper but think the springs become coil bound first,all the plates moved up and down ok (dry tested on bench),think i'll go down the thinner steels path,should i change all 3 tho, after checking lever travel, the clutch slip idea was me being lazy, unless somebody can point me in another direction.

[dennis]

just read my first post, ment to say 1.5 steels not 2.5.