Headset Wiring query

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jedan71
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HI all

I know we like them tight :o but i am at a loss to see how the wiring of new switch will pass through into my headset, anyone got tips?
Its a 85 SIL GP and hydraulic mounted front brake lever and the wiring is for a Indian switch with indicators hence the lots of cables,
I have to get indicators for NZ compliance rules... :evil:

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How do i squeeze so many cables and not cause damage or worry or future damage?
Minority
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Greetings from over the ditch.
I had the same issue when I did mine!
Like all gentlemen I used a bit of lubrication, and split the wires into two groups, indicators and lights. I took off the original sleeving and re-sleeved as the two groups, making sure that the wires weren't twisted so they laid nice and flat and also disposed of the wire for the indicator warning light (which I now regret!).
I also cut off the connectors and re-terminated when the wires were through.
Still a tight fit, but better. You may also find it easier putting the wires in first and then the thottle shaft.
Where did you get your nice shiny switch by the way?
jedan71
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Will have to split the wiring bundle and heat shrink them together in smaller groups and then try it, the switch was Beedspeed for 20 quid
http://beedspeed.com/lambretta-light-in ... -9018.html
warts
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You might not be that desparate, but a couple (not in the biblical sense) on here have shaved down the throttle shaft so they can play hide the brake pipe.
Should all else fail.
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coaster
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All good advice above, I've had the same issue on my Jet (with indicators). Another option rather than 'relieving' the throttle shaft would be to rewire the switch using modern 'thin wall' wiring. You'll get the same or better current rating and insulation but the diameter of the wire is much smaller.
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Stampede
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Pulling first the cables through and pushing in the rod afterwards, makes life also easier.....
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coaster
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Forgot to mention, with the throttle rod removed, use a file or better still, a dremel to smooth the sharp edges of the opening into the throttle tube.
jedan71
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What would the required amp rating :?: needed for 'thin wall' wiring, as i think maybe a pairing of a split loom and 'thin wall' might be a space saver and adding cable in first then rod that would be a combination of all the above answers...

Thanks so much for the replies...
Minority
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jedan71 wrote:What would the required amp rating :?: needed for 'thin wall' wiring, as i think maybe a pairing of a split loom and 'thin wall' might be a space saver and adding cable in first then rod that would be a combination of all the above answers...

Thanks so much for the replies...
Current is watts devided by voltage, so if you had a 35watt main beam at 12 volts it would be 35 divided by 12 = 2.92 amps.
I run a 60watt main beam so I need 5 amps.
Always run your cable with a bit of a safety margin, so for a 35 watt headlamp run 5 amp cable.
You can do the same sums for the other equipment.
Good luck and don't forget to post pics of the finished scooter.
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coaster
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Minority has it right but you will find that the lightest available wire will have a rating of around 9 amps so will be more than adequate for anything your scooter electrics can throw at it ;) Extra care needs to be exercised if you have a battery though, make sure the fuse is rated less than the current rating of the wire.
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