agusto experts please advise

[Adam_Winstone]

"Great fun wen they pack up as well! Nearly took my leg off last year"...?!

[soulsurfer]

I don't know if its any help Adam, but when my TS1 was set up with an Agusto 6000, the timing was set at 19deg at tick over moving to 14.5deg @ 6k rpm and 12deg @ 9k rpm.

[Adam_Winstone]

Ta Soulsurfer. My thinking is to try to see if I can start at something like 21-14, then see where we go from there. However, it is nice to hear what others are successfully running so I know what sort of scope I have.

One of the things that does make me chuckle is that the unit figure seems to relate to a rate of retard, rather than a hard and fast rule of the RPM value by which it stops retarding, as illustrated well by your settings, i.e. the 6000 unit keeps revving past 6000 RPM and further retards through to 9000 RPM. I guess that this just adds to the challenge.

Adam

[Adam_Winstone]

Well after a very limited amount of testing, around the Oxford ringroad, the motor certainly picks up better and has not lost any top end power. I'll now need to do a load more miles, road testing, EGT monitoring and possible adjustment before I am happy that all is well (along with doing the same with a 6000 unit for comparison).

FYI - I could only seem to get 4 degrees of variation from it (tickover to max revs, which on the stand were well over the 9K max on the road) so currently have it set at 18-14, based on the fact that it ran 16 degrees static.

Interesting to be playing with something new though and initial impressions are good.

Adam

[dave wheeler]

I`m confused! my nearly standard tv175 has a 6000 unit which I set at 21, am running in (or I would be if drt/Rimini would get their fingers out) so didn't know where the end point is but I assumed wherever I set it the range of retardation would be the same, ie 21-15 or 20-14, 19-13 ect and the end point would be determined by where you set it, is this not the case?
Also the reason for fitting was for cooler running and fuel economy, now i hear riding conservatively could overheat the engine, the very thing I bought it to avoid, as im running in I imagine I am operating in that `danger zone` yet ive seen no evidence of hot running, in fact its he best plug colour ive ever had, do I have anything to worry about?

[Adam_Winstone]

If your motor is near standard then the static timing that most people would use these days is 19 degrees so like for like, if you are doing this at your crusing speed/revs then your bike should cruise at the same temp as it normally would with static timing. I've been hearing various reports back from people about how much of a variation range they have and people telling me that their units continue to retard well beyond the rev range that it was presumed the function was fully over by (e.g. 8000 rpm for the 8000 unit but actually retarding well past 9K).

What I'm concerned with on my bike is that I don't want to set it so that it matches my normal static of 16 degrees at 8000 rpm but that over long gearing means that I'm cruising in 4th at 6000 rpm and 18 degrees... like for like my bike would actually be cruising at a greater advance and possibly overheat!

Because your 6000 unit will have a faster rate of retard, it is almost certain that your motor will be at 19 degrees or less at cruising speeds/revs. I assume that you have/will strobe it to ensure that your unit is actually retarding, and to see what your range of advance is (tickover to max retard)?

Adam

[jonashford]

Yup it's confusing alright, put it on ride a couple of hundred miles uphill on straights into the wind see what happens, if its no good change it and do it all over again until ur happy

[YAMLAM]

or just buy an Mtec?

[drunkmunkey6969]

or just buy an Mtec?

Agree. 16 settings....bliss!

[rosscla]

or just buy an Mtec?

Agree. 16 settings....bliss!

How many of them are actually any use though?