German made Augsburg Vespa T4's were essentially VBBs with 10" wheels and GS150 front fender.cit205 wrote:No, vbb /sportique should have 8 so it's been changed at some point.
Veapa PX engine into Sportique frame?
I stand corrected , didn't know of those. Look quite neathobospeed wrote:German made Augsburg Vespa T4's were essentially VBBs with 10" wheels and GS150 front fender.cit205 wrote:No, vbb /sportique should have 8 so it's been changed at some point.
You seem to be on the right track. The Sportique adopted 10" inch wheels for it's last years of production ('63 to '65' I believe), so yours are probably original?
As this is a 'large-frame to large-frame engine transplant, there should be no 'wheel alignment issues' nor frame clearance issues at the engine end, just use the Sportiques's original shock distance bolt at the back. (The Sportique is not a 'wide-mount' like the GS150 and has totally different offset wheel rims)
You should consider an up-rated front suspension spring as the original was pretty dire at 50mph max speed.
If you want a disc brake then the PK125XL forks are the most suitable basis: but this is expensive, labour intensive and probably OTT for a standard engine. Keeping the appearance consistent is also a factor. A beefed-up front spring and damper with well set-up drum front hub should be totally adequate. Can offer more advice If you think you want better, or pick-up a copy of the new SIP catalogue this shows all the available options in great detail.
Your only other major conversion issue is the electrical system. There is everything you need 'off the shelf' at specialist shops these days, with easy to follow diagrams etc. - Not like the time I did my 1st one.
As this is a 'large-frame to large-frame engine transplant, there should be no 'wheel alignment issues' nor frame clearance issues at the engine end, just use the Sportiques's original shock distance bolt at the back. (The Sportique is not a 'wide-mount' like the GS150 and has totally different offset wheel rims)
You should consider an up-rated front suspension spring as the original was pretty dire at 50mph max speed.
If you want a disc brake then the PK125XL forks are the most suitable basis: but this is expensive, labour intensive and probably OTT for a standard engine. Keeping the appearance consistent is also a factor. A beefed-up front spring and damper with well set-up drum front hub should be totally adequate. Can offer more advice If you think you want better, or pick-up a copy of the new SIP catalogue this shows all the available options in great detail.
Your only other major conversion issue is the electrical system. There is everything you need 'off the shelf' at specialist shops these days, with easy to follow diagrams etc. - Not like the time I did my 1st one.
I did not know if he had a complete scooter or not: so the question was to do with offering advice abouth the mudguard and the front suspension spring length from a sound basis. Anyhow, turns out he has a 10" front end already :wtf:ArmandTanzarian wrote: Since he quite clearly asks how you go about fitting a 10" wheel to the front I would say its a reasonable guess to assume that he has 8" wheels otherwise he wouldn't be asking how to replace a 10" wheel with another one would he.
Managed to squeeze the engine in tonight but now have problems with the carb hitting the frame. The filter just touches the frame but there is no way the cover will fit. See pics. Any suggestions?
Is the shock attached at the bottom with it like that? I'm pretty sure it should fit no problem,i've got a super that has had p200 and T5 engines in and out with no probs and the frame is not really much different at all. So you may have to get it in by lifting it up evenly front and back to get the carb over that 'threshold' of the lip there ,rather than getting the front bolt in first and swinging it up. Probably try it with the bike on its side so you can see what's going on.
Otherwise you will have to either extend the rear shock a bit by using a longer hex nut at the top, or cut a small piece out of the frame there.
Otherwise you will have to either extend the rear shock a bit by using a longer hex nut at the top, or cut a small piece out of the frame there.
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GLscoot
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Or, remove carburettor and box and fit a manifold and a PHBH carburettor. I have done a few of these conversions and had no problems, they were 10". So dont know how the 8' conversion works. I prefer not to cut the frame. But like as before, you may need to fit a longer shock bolt. Make the engine as light as possible and lay a cushion or similar and fit with the engine with the scooter on its side or upside down.
This was with the shock fitted. It's a newish autolube engine but been now told the carb box is too big and if I fit a non autolube one it is smaller and also takes a smaller filter so shouldn't have this problem. Does this make sense?
GLscoot wrote:Yes, why fit an autolube box in the first place, surely you are pre-mixing your fuel. You can get different lengths of shock distance bolt.
It was what was on the engine when I got it and didn't know there was a difference. Do you reckon this would sort it?
Fit the standard PX rear shock and it will solve this problem - i have done this conversion a good few times now and never had an issue.
BOTAK ITU INDAH.