Frankenserveta build thread

Post pics & videos of your scooter, projects you're working on, a lovely Vespa that you saw at a rally, or anything else scooter related.
Yanker
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theageofindustry wrote:did a little research on the Jalopy Journal forum and learned about the peening step which stretches the metal out that you shrank when you tack welded it. It still wasn't easy but it the end results were greatly improved!
I can appreciate the difficulty level on our curvey panel pressings. Great tip though! Wish I had it in the (leaky memory) bank before 'patching' my S2 leggies, would have been happier with the results without a doubt!

Super neat MiG work!

Note to self: think I need a better set as was getting nice results with the 320A set at college, but the wire feed on my 150A 2nd. hand hobby set is shite, also only use pure Co2 'pub-gas' on budget :oops:

Made it through MMA and MiG stage one courses (which was 2 x the expected qualification for the year's course): so sorry I cannot offer any TIG tips whatsoever....

Keep us posted on progress...please.

PS. What is 'oil canning the floor'?
theageofindustry
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I'm running a 125 amp millermatic I picked up heavily used for $140 :)

I did need to buy a new gun for it but that was it. My argon/co2 mix is about $35 a fill locally for a small tank. I was warned that if I did pure co2, my welds would be all pocky looking though so maybe that's the hot tip?
Yanker
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SIP 150A for about the same dollar. The Co2 is not problematic when turned up sufficiently (15 cfm +) and has produced excellent welds. It's the wire feed motor and roller/clamp combination at fault: have tried various (tried and advised) DIY remedies. It really needs a 'Euro Torch' conversion, new motor (already bought) and wire feed transmission...+ the re-wiring - not worth the hassle. Only reason I bought it was because of the 10 point dilable amperage: no use if the rest is not up-to-scratch.

Looking for a useable Portamig, Miller or similar quality product.

The gas prices here make it almost worth paying the extra baggage allowance on a personal flight! seriously! (for the 'light / hobby user' that is!)
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RICSPEED
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Yanker wrote:SIP 150A for about the same dollar. The Co2 is not problematic when turned up sufficiently (15 cfm +) and has produced excellent welds. It's the wire feed motor and roller/clamp combination at fault: have tried various (tried and advised) DIY remedies. It really needs a 'Euro Torch' conversion, new motor (already bought) and wire feed transmission...+ the re-wiring - not worth the hassle. Only reason I bought it was because of the 10 point dilable amperage: no use if the rest is not up-to-scratch.

Looking for a useable Portamig, Miller or similar quality product.

The gas prices here make it almost worth paying the extra baggage allowance on a personal flight! seriously! (for the 'light / hobby user' that is!)
simalar probs with mine though i expect it is a worn liner in the gun lead
Its in bits scooter club: www.facebook.com/groups/132415046859320
Minority
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RICSPEED wrote:
Yanker wrote:SIP 150A for about the same dollar. The Co2 is not problematic when turned up sufficiently (15 cfm +) and has produced excellent welds. It's the wire feed motor and roller/clamp combination at fault: have tried various (tried and advised) DIY remedies. It really needs a 'Euro Torch' conversion, new motor (already bought) and wire feed transmission...+ the re-wiring - not worth the hassle. Only reason I bought it was because of the 10 point dilable amperage: no use if the rest is not up-to-scratch.

Looking for a useable Portamig, Miller or similar quality product.

The gas prices here make it almost worth paying the extra baggage allowance on a personal flight! seriously! (for the 'light / hobby user' that is!)
simalar probs with mine though i expect it is a worn liner in the gun lead
Tried a new tip in the gun? I know it sounds silly, but I thought I had feed problems with my MIG, changed the tip (it was looking a bit dodgy) and "hey presto" all fixed!
Yanker
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Thanks for the tips.

It's had new liner, new swan-neck and regular tip and shroud replacement, the wire isn't rusty.

It takes waaaay more setting-up for a job than it should and is erratic

The feed motor is underpowered and the drive wheel tensioner has too much flex (plastic components), even with the brace I made for it.

A new motor and feed is nearly the price of a better 2nd hand set.

At the end of the day I have spent much more time 'fiddling' with it - more than I have actually welding with it.

Would feel embarassed at passing it on as anything other than spares/repair.

The 'Euro' torch set-up looks a lot better than this one by a mile...
Bilko
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Good work.
Bilko's Oily Blog

Directionally dysfunctional since 1966
theageofindustry
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Yikes, time for an update!

Drug it outside and took a few snaps with a real camera today. Still need a few things like LI mudguard rubbers and yes I know the horn badge clip is in wrong but you'll get the gist.

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I'm thinking a front oval racing number plate is in order to finish the look.
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Stokie
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I like that but you need to scuff that seat up, it looks far too new!
tha83
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Stokie wrote:I like that but you need to scuff that seat up, it looks far too new!
No way, it's a great contrast effect. Great work, giving me ideas. Need a throw around myself as I can't leave the sx anywhere in San Francisco, it'll get nicked.
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