Got two TS1 230 and fancy a bit of a change so im opting for a rb230,my TS1 made 29bhp and has been built with the best parts money can buy and built by Mr Barlow,would the crank that is a 60 stroke/yam rod 110mm not welded also built by Harry be upto the job or am i down to get a new crank and if so what one i would ave ask Harry but i cant get hold of him!!!!!
Thanks in advance,Cheers
Advice needed
- drunkmunkey6969
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Simple answer...wait till its stripped for rebuild, have crank checked for tru at that point, and if its out....junk it. But if its still good...maybe tig it for 'belt n braces' and then run it. ;o)
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Cheers for the advice,so if im to junk it due to it being well out of true,what crank do you advise on getting?
cheers.
cheers.
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- drunkmunkey6969
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Presuming you are looking at 30bhp+? Something like a BGM 60/110 or either an AF or PM Tuning 62/116........all depends on final engine spec, CC requirements, port timings, etc....
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drunkmunkey6969 wrote:Simple answer...wait till its stripped for rebuild, have crank checked for tru at that point, and if its out....junk it. But if its still good...maybe tig it for 'belt n braces' and then run it. ;o)
Why junk it for being out of true? Unless the critical surfaces are damaged I'd just re-true it and weld the pin (which is what should have been done on a 29bhp motor in the first place).
Just my thoughts...
- drunkmunkey6969
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Ok, myabe 'junk it' is an overstatement....but my point is, dont use it on that motor. If it cant handle current power, it wont handle more. So tru it and use it on a less powerful motor, whilst fitting a crank fit for purpose into the higher power motor. If the pin has slipped already, on existing power, then there is a chance that even with TIG it will slip again with more power. I've seen it happen, saw a crank get TIGd and re-used after twisting once.....under load it spread out on the pin, cracked through the TIG and the web pushed onto the mag housing.........made an unsightly mess of the engines bottom endGrumpy225 wrote:drunkmunkey6969 wrote:Simple answer...wait till its stripped for rebuild, have crank checked for tru at that point, and if its out....junk it. But if its still good...maybe tig it for 'belt n braces' and then run it. ;o)
Why junk it for being out of true? Unless the critical surfaces are damaged I'd just re-true it and weld the pin (which is what should have been done on a 29bhp motor in the first place).
Just my thoughts...

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drunkmunkey6969 wrote:Ok, myabe 'junk it' is an overstatement....but my point is, dont use it on that motor. If it cant handle current power, it wont handle more. So tru it and use it on a less powerful motor, whilst fitting a crank fit for purpose into the higher power motor. If the pin has slipped already, on existing power, then there is a chance that even with TIG it will slip again with more power. I've seen it happen, saw a crank get TIGd and re-used after twisting once.....under load it spread out on the pin, cracked through the TIG and the web pushed onto the mag housing.........made an unsightly mess of the engines bottom endGrumpy225 wrote:drunkmunkey6969 wrote:Simple answer...wait till its stripped for rebuild, have crank checked for tru at that point, and if its out....junk it. But if its still good...maybe tig it for 'belt n braces' and then run it. ;o)
Why junk it for being out of true? Unless the critical surfaces are damaged I'd just re-true it and weld the pin (which is what should have been done on a 29bhp motor in the first place).
Just my thoughts...
That's a good point, once it twisted that's probably the end of it for that motor. Have never seen a correctly TIG welded one twist, spread or crack but anything is possible with them high HP motors.
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Thanks for the replys,has anyone got any feed back on the BGM HPC 60/110 crank as ive been doen the AF crank route and it ended up twisting!!!
Anytime you have a 50-50 chance of getting something right, there`s a 90% probability you`ll get it wrong.