running pathfinders without battery
Tip for people trying to run an LED tail lamp on DC from a battery/capacitor with a vespa B+ reg system, instead of using a rectifier to allow the tail feed to operate a relay, an Indian ignition switch will do the job on its own.
The Indian ignition switch was designed to seperate the 12v headlight from the 6v tail lamp, so the two circuits are totally seperate. Use an AC feed to the switch brown, as normal, to feed the headlamp, and use a DC feed on the switch purple/blue to supply the tail lamp. As the front pilot stays on with the main lights, to save a few more watts, it would be best to remove it or fit an LED festoon.
- byron
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that is rather useful to know. thanksfirekdp wrote:The Indian ignition switch was designed to seperate the 12v headlight from the 6v tail lamp, so the two circuits are totally seperate. Use an AC feed to the switch brown, as normal, to feed the headlamp, and use a DC feed on the switch purple/blue to supply the tail lamp. As the front pilot stays on with the main lights, to save a few more watts, it would be best to remove it or fit an LED festoon.
This is what I used to seperate my dc circuit from the ac slightly modified...the Indian switch sort of lent itself easily to the conversion that I used....but being Indian its now on its 3rd Ignition switch...one fell apart inside the contacts.... the other one the alloy case cracked and the Innards fell out...byron wrote:that is rather useful to know. thanksfirekdp wrote:The Indian ignition switch was designed to seperate the 12v headlight from the 6v tail lamp, so the two circuits are totally seperate. Use an AC feed to the switch brown, as normal, to feed the headlamp, and use a DC feed on the switch purple/blue to supply the tail lamp. As the front pilot stays on with the main lights, to save a few more watts, it would be best to remove it or fit an LED festoon.
slightly off subject but not much should pathfinder lights be wired so as to only illuminate when on main beam I thought it was a m.o.t requirement to stop dazzling that spot lamps extinguished with m/beam, this would mean the switch for pathfinders being fed from the main beam feed ( red or blue ) then to the relay wouldn't this reqire a dc feed to main lights to trigger the relay .
I don't know if it is an MOT requirement or not for the spot to extinguish with high beam, but the fog would obviously only be used with dip beam. I believe the original system only worked off the 3rd key position (high or dip), mainly to prevent them being left on and flattening the battery. They were also only used, with a 12v DC conversion, one at a time (either spot or fog) so I drew the circuit to replicate this.
Also I don't think the original used relays either so if not using a battery just take the feed direct from the switch to the lights.
If you want the spot to still work independently on/off and only from the high beam circuit on AC your probably going to have to add another switch, with DC it shouldn't be a problem.
Also I don't think the original used relays either so if not using a battery just take the feed direct from the switch to the lights.
If you want the spot to still work independently on/off and only from the high beam circuit on AC your probably going to have to add another switch, with DC it shouldn't be a problem.
This was a rewire without the need to replace or desolder or even remove the cowling and uses the existing regulator....If you wire full wave rectification through the four bobbins in series there are disadvantages, so I would do a full conversion replacing bobbins two in series.... but the advantages of mine as I see it is, all the original components are unchanged and the conversion works without the zenor if needed so its cheap £ 3.00 for the rectifier and then the cost of a battery.....Originally did this conversion to fit a loud horn and wire the brake light to dc to prevent the headlight dimming and then flashing as you press the brake pedal....had a car pull out on me at a junction, he told me I had flashed him all I had done was dab the back brake....But there is more than one way to achive this setup and mine isnt necessarilly the best....its just one way of doing it...firekdp wrote:JIMS, why did you go for this conversion over the vespa B+ regulator as your using more components to get the same result? Also the addition of one wire will give a full DC system, again wth less components.
- soulsurfer
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I've looked for these on the LTH site but can't find them, are they available?nop LRSC wrote:short imtermission: hi there!
following a somewhat longer discussuion at the german scooter forum (http://www.germanscooterforum.de/Lambre ... 58489.html), i had some 50 adaptor-rings lasered to get around finding those annoying bpf-bulbs over here in germany.![]()
outer dia = 36mm (bpf socket)
inner dia = 26mm (h7 bulbs and p26s bulbs, vespa v50 headlights).
more images can be seen in the GSF topic here: http://www.germanscooterforum.de/index. ... 1066115970 - more detailed stuff at my page, http://www.vespa-t5.org/lambretta-stuff ... al-lights/
the rings will be available soon at LTH, http://lambretta-teile.de (language selector at right bottom)
please don't ask me for shipping, costs etc, LTH will do that. i only had them made.
hope that helps.
stefan
Turn On, Tune In, Cop out!

