Sealer for cylinder head
Anyone using norlock washers instead of the flat or spring washers?
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essexgp
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Didnt think asking this question would open this can of worms lol 
so going to ask another question 
Should I use the sealer on the metal base gasket too
Also been and bought the Loctite 5910 today as well
so going to ask another question Should I use the sealer on the metal base gasket too
Also been and bought the Loctite 5910 today as well
ove wrote:Anyone using norlock washers instead of the flat or spring washers?
I use 'em seems OKBilko wrote:What about Nord Lock washers?
I am playing all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order.
seal top an bottom gasket faces use instant gasket type seal for base and Wellseal or similar for top fit thick flat washers first and springs ontop an retork after a couple hundred mile use a torque wrench; if ya usin gaskets then ya don't really need sealant cuz it's used instead of but ya can put a thin smear on the gasket an it should be better than a good thing dun well,essexgp wrote:Didnt think asking this question would open this can of worms lol
Should I use the sealer on the metal base gasket too
Also been and bought the Loctite 5910 today as well
muppet,
anyone else sez different an i tell ya ther wrong
C’est la vie
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WINTERMODEL150
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Use it everywhere with or without gaskets it's really good stuff .essexgp wrote:Didnt think asking this question would open this can of worms lol
Should I use the sealer on the metal base gasket too
Also been and bought the Loctite 5910 today as well
Dean
might be a good idea to only use single coil washers once and use steel instead of stainless
I guess a lot of this is down to so many variables............
Are you using decent cylinder studs rather than cheap old rubbish?
Are the stud holes on the casing threaded deep enough because some are not?
Are you using quality fasteners?
Are you using a torque wrench?
Base gasket or sealer?
Have you flatted your head? Even if its a new kit, as i've seen some iffy ones!
Have you flatted your barrel facing that the head sits on? It's no good having a nicely skimmed head and a head gasket if your barrel facing is a bit iffy.
The problem i have with spring washers is that they get tired with heat etc very quickly.
You can see this as when a spring washer is new one side sits considerably higher than the other (if you know what i mean). After a month or two of being fastened and you take it apart the spring washer has nowhere near the amount of "spring" left in it and also sometimes when doing spring washers up they separate which can cause problems too.
It is my view that if you have quality cylinder studs and they are tight in the casing and threaded deep enough and your using decent fasteners and thick flat washers and you make absolutely sure that your head AND barrel facing is 100% flat and your using a decent torque wrench and you retorque after a few miles initialy you do not need spring washers and this will give you the best seal.
I have to say that the MBD cylinder studs and nuts (with flats) are absolutely excellent quality and i would recommend them to anyone.
Are you using decent cylinder studs rather than cheap old rubbish?
Are the stud holes on the casing threaded deep enough because some are not?
Are you using quality fasteners?
Are you using a torque wrench?
Base gasket or sealer?
Have you flatted your head? Even if its a new kit, as i've seen some iffy ones!
Have you flatted your barrel facing that the head sits on? It's no good having a nicely skimmed head and a head gasket if your barrel facing is a bit iffy.
The problem i have with spring washers is that they get tired with heat etc very quickly.
You can see this as when a spring washer is new one side sits considerably higher than the other (if you know what i mean). After a month or two of being fastened and you take it apart the spring washer has nowhere near the amount of "spring" left in it and also sometimes when doing spring washers up they separate which can cause problems too.
It is my view that if you have quality cylinder studs and they are tight in the casing and threaded deep enough and your using decent fasteners and thick flat washers and you make absolutely sure that your head AND barrel facing is 100% flat and your using a decent torque wrench and you retorque after a few miles initialy you do not need spring washers and this will give you the best seal.
I have to say that the MBD cylinder studs and nuts (with flats) are absolutely excellent quality and i would recommend them to anyone.