Continually seizing with panels on

[lifes a drag]

one of the main things that will make it seize is silly revs making it hot, i dont think that is your problem though.
like otheres have seid on here check for leaks and timing.
if you are conserned about it getting hot with the pannels on i would cut some holes in the top of the pannels as the heat will rise, iv seen a few with fine mesh over the holes and they look really good,
these things were designed to run all day in hot countries with the pannels on so i dont think our climate should bother them unless there tuned to bits

1 more thing, always use super unleaded and the best oil you can afford

[Mark 1]

Thanks L A D,
after reading a few replies I'll definately change to super unleaded, never thought it would make a difference but obviously I've missed a trick. I use Rock oil or Putoline so think that's ok. I have also just changed the plug for a 9 so will give it a run tomorrow.
Had thougth about taking a four inch band of the bottom of the panels (keeping the ends normal length) to get rid of the heat, thought at least the air would have somewhere to go. Is it better to make some cut outs in the top?
It's this leak bit that gets me, wouldn't it be obvious? Like i'd at least see oil leaking? I did used to get a bit out the exhaust port but not much.

Thanks again

[ArmandTanzarian]

The bottom line is that lots of other people run full bodied scoots on crap supermarket petrol with no issues. Therefore the problem must be something specific to your scoot. As others have said, start with the easy stuff. Timing is easy to check if you can get hold of a strobe light. Stop, let the engine cool and check the plug as soon as you have problems. That should give you an idea what was going on at the time. Also, check the gear box oil. Its unlikely to be that, but its dead easy to check.

[Mark 1]

Gearbox oil is Castrol and brand new and and was just starting to come out of level plug on the flat, so happy there. I'll get my head in Sticky's book and read up on timing, sure I can borrow a strobe from somewhere. As its electronic and starts so well I always presumed it was ok, again it would have been set up when Readspeed did the rebuild years ago. So much to learn

Thanks Armand

[Adam_Winstone]

Forget cutting the panels! Whilst you might be helping to cool a hot motor, the motor is getting hot because of other faults. All cutting the panels is doing is bodging your way around an issue, rather than addressing the cause and rectifying the problem.

If you want it to run cooler then make sure the bike is run in, that the compression is right, that the timing is right, that you're not suffering from fuel starvation and that the ignition timing is right. 1st step for me would be to knock the ignition timing back, which will make MUCH MORE of a difference to running temperatures than taking your panels off completely.

If you are not happy doing the set-up work on the engine then get it to a respected dealer and pay them to do it, which ends up costing far less than seizing the motor and damaging the top-end or twisting the crank.

Adam

[Adam_Winstone]

Forget cutting the panels! Whilst you might be helping to cool a hot motor, the motor is getting hot because of other faults. All cutting the panels is doing is bodging your way around an issue, rather than addressing the cause and rectifying the problem.

If you want it to run cooler then make sure the bike is run in, that the compression is right, that the timing is right, that you're not suffering from fuel starvation and that the ignition timing is right. 1st step for me would be to knock the ignition timing back, which will make MUCH MORE of a difference to running temperatures than taking your panels off completely.

If you are not happy doing the set-up work on the engine then get it to a respected dealer and pay them to do it, which ends up costing far less than seizing the motor and damaging the top-end or twisting the crank.

Adam

[Mark 1]

OK thanks Adam and all for advice.

Seems like there is a cause to the overheating and it's not especially obvious. It does get stupidly hot and I don't want to be ruining what I have already done.

I'll read through stickys book and see if I feel capable of changing the timing. Was trying to get away with taking the head off again but presume I have to in order to identify the TDC

If I think it's going to be beyond me I'll contact the proffessionals.

Thanks again
Mark

[rosscla]

If you use the positive stop method you don't need to take the head off, though if its been seizing then a strip and check would be advised.

Put something like a round punch or large screw driver in the plug hole and strap it in place, turn the engine in one direction slowly till it hits the stop and mark the mag flange next to the arrow on the flywheel, then turn it in the opposite direction till it touches the stop again. Mark this point on the mag flange. TDC is midway between these two points.

[Muppet]

to much hard work all strip rebuild time it squish it fan cowl cooling it re jetting it ded stop it do this to it do that to it and so on; why dont you just leave the fn panels off and ride it
muppet,

[Mark 1]

It does sound like hard work muppet, and after Rosscla's quote I just had a look on Scooterhelp and I'm thinking buy a flywheel removal tool Buy a flywheel holding tool buy a timing gun Jesus, does the spending ever end!! And then I might mess it up
That said if I need to buy a whole new engine because of the damage it could well end in divorce! Now there's a thought :anbrgin;