Clutch slip.

[10 inch Terror]

Hi all, I've just put a clutch together and being an impatient bugger I only soaked the plates for 3 or 4 hours ( silly I know ). Anyway it slips under load, could this be purely because the plates are 'dry'? Could someone please point this dumpty in the right direction please. Cheers all.

[GP Kevo]

What gear oil did you use?

[Timbo]

Could be anything, springs too weak?

[Terrible Taff]

Hi all, I've just put a clutch together and being an impatient bugger I only soaked the plates for 3 or 4 hours ( silly I know ). Anyway it slips under load, could this be purely because the plates are 'dry'? Could someone please point this dumpty in the right direction please. Cheers all.

When your on the side of the road with a clutch to change you have no choice but to just coat the plates with oil & fit them.
Never had a problem doing this or in the workshop.

It is proberbly your old clutch springs not having enough preload pressure to stop the slipping!

Either your clutch cable is set up too tight or the springs you are using are not upto the job.

Hope this will help you sort you problem.

Information for other Lambretta Owners with clutch issues.

Normally there is 20mm for the clutch to fit into.
A standard 4 plate clutch & steels set up is 18.2mm thick with 1.8mm to release with a 3.0mm top plate, more clearance by using the thinner 2.5mm or 2.0mm available for the 5 & 6 plate set ups.
Check that the top cork plate drive tangs still fit into the clutch basket & do not ride over the top!

Springs that do not allow fee play when the clutch assembly is compressed will only lead to clutch drag as the engine warms up & all expands hence the 2-3mm clearance at the handlebar leaver!
If too tight or the Li/SX clutch thimble will weld it's self to the pleasure plate & on GP's the bronze bush wear down!

The clutch spings that you use only have a minimum of 14mm to fit into when coil bound or 16.5mm with the new Indian 5 plate pressure bells now being sold on ebay denoted by the full circlular top actuating plate whether Li/SX or GP type which comes with a set of spings & a new GP brass plunger.

First dry fit the clutch (NO SPRINGS) to check that there is free play to release! Check again when the clutch assembly is being compressed with the circlip fitted!

Some times the cluster shaft protrudes though the clutch nut & stops the pressure plate from going fully down to touch the base of the clutch basket!
I have slimmed the clutch nut & moddified the cluster shaft before now to fit 5 & 6 plate clutch units so as to give clearance to release.

This is why new bepoke engine builds take longer than a simple strip & rebuild to do as none of the parts have previously been together!
It take's me approximatly 14 hours to port, prep & build a new motor from scratch checking clearances & chain alaignment etc.

Best regards

[Timbo]

Recently had this problem an obstruction to the centre rod which fits into the drilled out gear group which prevents the clutch from tipping! This had a burr on it causing the pressure plate to mis-operate and the springs didn't have enough strength to overcome it .