Damper Studs

[shocky]

[shocky]

if anyone needs this repair doing let me know and ill buy the kit above

[soullad]

I think Steve has a point, both repair studs should in theory do the 2 jobs, crankcase and damper. I also think Steve recommendation for a larger drill would be wise as with the links you are drilling into steel, unlike the crankcase softer Ali which would be easier to tap.
As you would be tapping steel, might also be worth considering buying a decent tap set, with a first and seconds tap for the 8mm?
I have exactly the same issue with a set, so be keen to see how you get on or if MB do indeed make the repair studs?

Proper damper studs are shouldered to keep the damper in position, they also have a hexagonal section so you can tighten them with a spanner.
The crankcase side repair studs are M6 at one end, M8 at the other with a 6mm unthreaded section in the middle, not really suitable as a damper stud.

I've used Terry Whites (Rapid Industrial) damper studs (7s to 6s) for ages, they are unshouldered and have no middle unthreaded section. Ok they are a repair stud but ideal for the standard job IMHO. You can double nut / loctite them in, and then before sliding the shock eye on, first place a thick penny washer. They work and look great.
I found the shouldered studs space / force the bottom eye too far way from the link and side load the small bush in the lower shock mount. Also the damper can sometimes look misaligned with the fork leg too ...
Of course the position of the top welded on damper lugs has a role to play in this scenario. Just saying that I do this to all my scoots now, it seems to work. I know you aren't going to recommend it, but if your crankcase M8 to M6 studs were threaded in the middle I'd use them to repair my knackered link too !

[corrado]

This is the MB stud. http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/s ... p0278.html
Sorry if that links already been posted.