burning out clutch plates?

[storkfoot]

Each clutch is different but, yes, I'd agree. My TS1 has a Surflex 5 plate, uprated springs, and PX springs over. It took a couple of months to ease off and I'll admit that it was stiff to start. Now it's fine.

I could probably get away with not having the PX springs now but I like the way it gives a firm and deliberate feel to the clutch and gearchange.

[servetakid]

I will have a full component check tonight and decide what route to go down.

One thing I did notice, is that my clutch cable adjustment seems to change. I purposely slackened it off as there was no play in the lever, I backed it off so there was maybe a little more than there should be to see how it felt. But as I rode the bike the lever got slacker and slacker. But now the lever has no play and the cable is tight. Any one had this before?

[storkfoot]

Just check that your cable outer is sitting right both in headset and adjuster.

[servetakid]

I stripped my clutch down... And the surflex plates have disintegrated! I've checked all my components the clutch spider seemed a bit worn so I've swapped it, every thing seemed ok.

I have decided to add a center spring around the nut as I couldn't get PX springs to sit well. I have also done a dry build and I measured the gap between the top plate and the circlip and it is 1.2mm when fully compressed. I hope I've measured this right, if not can some one correct me?

[servetakid]

Sorry to be a pain, but can anyone confirm that I've meassured correctly before I put it together in the morning. Cheers!

[storkfoot]

I can't give you a precise measurement (maybe someonme else can?) but if you compress the clutch and then just gently use your fingers to separate the plates. If they separate ok, maybe by 1.5mm or so, then in my experience it should be OK.

I possess a centre spring and at one stage I was going to try it. But, over the years I've heard and seen plenty of comments from people who struggle to get them to work properly. Possibly, and this is me guessing, because a spring in the middle does not control the separation around the whole circumference, whereas the PX ones will Good luck

[servetakid]

Yes everything separates ok and between the top plate and circlip there's 1.2mm gap.

[coaster]

I posted this on another thread the other week

My 4 plate clutch started to slip when I fitted the Avanti top end. I already had some Camlam 5 plate thin steels (1,2mm) and friction plates mixed and matched with standard surflex plates and steals until I had just under 1.5mm clearance on full comression (usiung the compressor) following advice from Diablo on another thread. I have standard Indian clutch bell and spider and MB springs. The result doesn't slip and is no heavier with a dog leg MB lever fitted.

That was following advice from Diablo, the measurement was taken with the clutch fully compressed with the compressor and the feeler gauge between the top plate and the first friction plate. Still working with a hundred or so miles on it.

[servetakid]

Thanks! I'll check the measurement tomorrow. I wasn't sure where to measure, but I would of thought it would be the same? As the top plate has 1.2 mm in which to move?

[Eibar]

Encountered exactly the same clutch plate burning, difficult to adjust problems as you specify in your post. Went through two sets of plates in no time at all and got stinky oil. Gaps all looked fine when compresed etc ,

Turned out to be an aftermarket spider wasn't sitting all the way home on the xmas tree(xmas tree was the problem ). filed and fettled to get it all sweet with no probs.

On side note my rapido with 4 plate and mb springs has never suffered any drag or slip

Good luck