Exol Optima FST Full synthetic racing two stroke
- jonashford
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they sell a tap for the 25 litre drum
Groundsman is PP2 but labelled for Industrial/agricultural use. Personally I wouldn't use in a tuned Motor, but I do know some use semi-synthetic oil in TS's and RB's. Most oils whether fully synthetic or semi, ester based or a straight mineral oil will run ok, it's when you strip the engine that you should see the difference. I have dynoed an engine with several oils to see if there is any gain in performance and the test was a waste of time, what I should have done (if I could afford it) was take several engines and feed them with different oils, I am sure Groundsman would show more wear and build up of carbon etc than say an ester based oil, but, if you are ok with stripping your engine as the previous post remarked , fair enough.
Last edited by hydra on Sun Mar 18, 2012 11:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
i,ve been using lubetech fully synthetic oil for 2 years in my mugello 186 m,way and local,i like it and will on using it.i use it in a rt190 too.
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Eden has stripped his motor a few times when he tested it,didnt see any build up.If i encounter any problems,i`ll post it but who can be sure when their big end goes its 100% down to the oil? I`ll keep using it for now anyway.The horticulture industry hasnt come to a halt with busted chainsaws anyway.hydra wrote:I am sure Groundsman would show more wear and build up of carbon etc than say an ester based oil
- paulmgreen
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I have some Lubetech product on the way and will be testing it in my race bike at the Mallory Park BSSO pre season test...... Will be publishing feedback in due course ! ! !
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Sorry, you're missing my point a little soosh. Eden may have stripped his engine a few times, but how from that can he compare the results of different oils and their effects on say ring/piston wear or bore wear, ring gumming and carbon build up? You would have to run two identical engines or with one engine, run for so many thousand miles with one oil and then rebuild and run the same test and then measure the piston etc. The Big end you use an example would probably run ok with any of the afore mentioned oils and who does comparative tests on chainsaw engines, Councils? I think not, they will base their choice of oil on one thing, cost! then repair the things as if that was the natural life expectancy of the saw. I'm sure you will agree, you usually get what you pay for, I think your trade is no different. Oil is no different. Best for lubricity is Castor Bean Oil (although is worst for carbon build up), 2nd Ester based oil, 3rd is Polyalpholephin fully synthetic oil (which is a group 4 synthetic) such as Rock Syn2, Mobil 1 racing 2T etc, 4th I would personally choose an ester based semi synthetic before some Group 3 Fully synthetic oils that are labelled as fully synthetic , but is an inferior oil to it's group 4 namesake. Then lastly there are all the above examples in their semi synthetic mix with mineral oil. To top all that off, there are then all the additives thrown in??? Another common misconception is the jaso spec of oil. You may have an £18 and a £5 bottle of oil both with say jaso FD and think you are getting the same spec oil, this is not the case. Anyway, enough said I think, it usually makes no difference, folks usually stick with an oil as if they have shares in the said oils profits.soosh wrote:Eden has stripped his motor a few times when he tested it,didnt see any build up.If i encounter any problems,i`ll post it but who can be sure when their big end goes its 100% down to the oil? I`ll keep using it for now anyway.The horticulture industry hasnt come to a halt with busted chainsaws anyway.hydra wrote:I am sure Groundsman would show more wear and build up of carbon etc than say an ester based oil

- drunkmunkey6969
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Totally agree with hydra, but feel there is little point being drawn in to this thread, as people tend to have very staunch views about oil. But as hydra says.....Jaso ratings are mainly to express whether or not the oil meets government guidelines for clean burning and such, and have very little to do with the lubricity of the oil. So comparing Jaso ratings to figure out if your chainsaw oil is as good for your engine as high spec race oil is pointless. And a quote saying.....I went to xyz rally and back on chainsaw oil and my scooter never blew up is hardly evidence that the oil is not causing premature wear to your engine cylinder/piston/rings/bearings/rod etc......these factors only become unearthed on like-for-like comparisons and strip downs. Also, how do you know what effect the cheap oil is having on running temps, the enemy if two strokes!? And can you say.....with all the variable kits, cranks, carbs, heads, comp ratios, ign timings, squish settings etc that make everyone's scooter different, that just because your pal uses lawnmower oil and 'went to a rally and didn't blow up' that your scooter will behave the same? All I can say to close is this....if your goal is to run a cheap engine with cheap oil and thrash it till it dies, and then rebore/rebuild and repeat...then go ahead, if you do a lot of miles the savings you make in oil might pay for your budget rebuilds. But anyone spending big bucks on decent kits and components should value the spec of thier engine build and pay for decent oil. Why spend £1k, £2k or £3k+ on a high end engine build and then risk premature wear, and lost performance by treating your £2k investment to a £4 tub of lawnmower oil?
:-?:shock::-?:roll: Regardless of price, your oil should be chosen by its abilty to do its job properly and meet your particular engines demands, and that is certainly not to say that in every case a higher price guarantees a better oil, but I always have and always will match a decent oil to a decent engine! 

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- Muttley McLadd
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While I don't want to get accused of trolling..
How many of the 'decent' oils are overkill in a scooter that never goes over 7000 revs?
How many of the 'decent' oils are overkill in a scooter that never goes over 7000 revs?
CakeAndArseParty
- drunkmunkey6969
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Probably quite a few, thats what i mean....choose an oil that fits your engine and meets its demands.Muttley McLadd wrote:While I don't want to get accused of trolling..
How many of the 'decent' oils are overkill in a scooter that never goes over 7000 revs?
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