BAJAJ Advice

[Tony Hart]

My neighbours brought back a Royal Enfield and a Bajaj scooter from a posting to India, both of which have stood in the garage for the past two years - the bikes not the neighbours! My wife offered my help to get the scooter on the road based on the fact that I have a Lambretta and spend a fair amount of time tinkering in the garage. I must admit that I knew very little about vespas. I have managed to get the scooter running by changing various bits and have given it a going over for 'horrors'. The rear light is a GS type but the upper pyramid is amber and lights up as the brake light. This obviously needs changing to a red lens for a MoT - does anyone know if these upper lenses are available seperately or will I need to change the whole rear light

I have ran the engine but the spark plug is still coming up oily black - is this an indication of a blown drive side seal as on a Lambretta and will it be a complete engine strip down to change

Many thanks for any advice

Tony

[goldeneye]

a rear light swap shouldnt be a headache, and copy GS style lights are cheap enough. dont go spending a lot to put it right, bajaj"s are worth buttons. cheap entry into the scooter world , and great for it.......but not worth a great deal. most ive paid was about £150....... and ive had about ten of them! 25 quid for one!

[rondon]

I'll have 1 if u can get me 1 in that price range jeff :fb:

[goldeneye]

got one for fifty quid, replaced a couple of cables , and gaffer taped a few bits back on, and used it for work for 8 months . never missed a beat. about 10 years ago, might be worth more now. it went to jarrow way ron, keep your eyes peeled....

[Tony Hart]

Many Thanks. Not sure how much they paid for the Bajaj but it has its fair share of horrors. Like I said i have been roped in to getting it on the road and through a MoT. It is running quite well but the main hurdle is the MoT and I don't want to waste their money needlessly :anbrgin;

[Tony Hart]

I am still plodding on with this. I had to replace the light switch as the cut-out button on the side was missing and have wired up the replacement the same as the original, (clockwise from top left when looking at the back - purple, brown, green, yellow, white, red). The problem that I now have is that the horn is permanently on - the white wire from the horn is live with the engine running. If I disconnect the white wire and touch the switch housing with it the horn activates. I can turn the horn off by putting the light switch in the off position but then the horn button doesn't work.

Has anyone got any ideas what the problem is, (Apart from trying to fix something I know little about!)

Tony

[Tony Hart]

Still struggling with this light switch! I gave up on the first replacement and now have a switch with the cut out on top, a square horn button and the 'three way' light toggle on the under-side. So far I have managed to get the cut out and horn to work but no lights :wtf: . There are ten connections numbered 1-9 and M on the back of the switch and I have 6 wires - red, brown, purple, green, white and yellow.

Does anyone have any advice on the correct connections or a link to a wiring diagram.

I am slowly losing the will to live on this one after four nights of changing wires and having to start the bike every time to test

Tony

[Muttley McLadd]

Would it be easier to rewire it completely?
If you make your own loom for it, and use new switches (not necessarily proper Vespa/Bajaj ones) you'll know where everything is supposed to be.

[coaster]

The problem that I now have is that the horn is permanently on - the white wire from the horn is live with the engine running. If I disconnect the white wire and touch the switch housing with it the horn activates. I can turn the horn off by putting the light switch in the off position but then the horn button doesn't work. Tony

I think that some horns are wired that way with the horn permanently live and the horn button just connects it to earth to make it work. The ignition kill switch also switches to earth so I would suggest using an Ohmeter to check which wires connect to earth when pushed.