virgin restorer......in need of advice!

[RICSPEED]

http://scooterotica.org/forum/memberlis ... ile&u=1165

[coaster]

http://scooterotica.org/forum/memberlis ... ile&u=1165

I had a look no the LCGB site and apparently sending him a PM is the best way of contacting him as he gets snowed under with emails.

[Doom Patrol]

You can send your locks to Jem Booth for re-curb. Berthed than felon about with re made stuff

There's nothing wrong with remade locks providing you buy good quality ones in the first place. It depends what you want to achieve. If you're a stickler get them refurbished. It always comes down to how much you are prepared to pay, and how long you want to wait in the end.

[challenger]

I cant help you with the cost of Rebuilding your Engine, it depends on the spec you want and how many parts you need or want replacing/upgrading.

Paint pricing depends on how many parts you need painting, most Paint Shops are reluctant to paint a complete set of lambretta parts, theres a lot of prep work to do...basically..the more prep, the larger the bill at the end.
Id recommend getting the bodywork painted and everything under the panels, Tank, Toolbox etc and forks, wheels, rims, Frame Powder Coated.
This should leave you with just the Leggies, mudguard, horncover, sidepanels, rear light housing and headset top and bottom to get painted.
Most Body repair shops will be willing to do your bodywork for about 500 £, (Panels are easier to prep than complicated shapes like hubs etc.
Its worth driving around a bit, take the body parts with you and look out for clean business premises with good equipment. Agree on a time scale as sprayers are renowned for not meeting deadlines


For good quality "Triple Plate" Chrome you should expect to pay between 80-10 £ for the sidecasing and the same again for the exhaust and U-Bend.
Both prices depending on the condition of the parts.
If they are badly pitted or have deep scratches, it will take more time to prep for plating and may involve more copper plating coats and polishing which will push the price up.
If the exhaust U-Bend is badly pitted, it would be cheaper to replace it.

Heres a guide to what the Powder Coating should cost ; (Including bead blasting)
Prices are based on Ral colours, (Double coating, powder base coat and powder top coat).
Metallic colours normally cost Aprox. 3-5 £ more, as does Clear coating.(Double coating, powder base coat, powder top coat, Powder clear coat)
Effect colours like flake and candys are usually more expensive, most powder companys wont have it on stock and will need to buy it in for you.

Wheel rims,Pair 10£
Forks, 30£
Front hub, both sides, 25£
Rear hub. 12£
Rear mudguard 12£
Tank 18£
Toolbox 18£
Air Filter box 10£
Air filter elbow 5£
Seat base 30£
Frame 100£
Engine casing, Incl. side casing and Mag housing 120£

The next step would be to polish the ally parts which you can do yourself and zinc plate small parts like brake cable levers, gear swivels, starplate etc. Re-zincing is cheaper than buying replacement parts so is worth doing.

The same applys here, shop around and get at least two quotes in. Try not to use industrial coaters as youll recieve an Industrial product afterwards. Industrial coaters are cheap...your parts will be fed into the normal process and you wont have a large choice of colours. If you get your stuff coated by someone whos used to doing Scooter parts and small batches you will get better results. They will also know what to mask off, theres nothing worse than stripping powder coating from a mag housing thats been completley coated..


Hope that helps

[psychedelicropcircle]

it would seem this scootae is not going to restore itself so I might as well start to strip it...see if it can motivate my lazy arse




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[psychedelicropcircle]

the flywheel thread is fecked so it'll be interseting to see how I get that off...opinions welcome!!!!!

[onefortheroad]

My advice would be re-use as much of the original stuff as possible as it will be of much higher quality than remade stuff and it will fit better. It may seem excessive when getting something rechromed is sometimes more expensive than buying the part new but often the quality of remade stuff is sh*te.

Use quality dealers as recommended by people on here (i use scooter restorations, cambridge lambretta and scootopia) and buy the best you can afford. For example I paid £8 for a 'Race' toolbox lock that didnt even line up with the holes on door! Ended up paying another £20 for a casa lambretta that fitted perfectly!

I budget £500-£1000 for blasting and paint, £500 engine ( I always do standard engine so tuned will be more!) £200 chrome and £500 trim, rubbers, badges cables etc.

I've done 3 lambrettas now and this is about right.

The best advice is buy stickys manual and then come on here and ask loads of daft questions!

Also there are always loads of people local who will be happy to pop round and help just for the love of tinkering with Lambrettas!

That exhaust looks great- let me know if you are thinking of getting rid

[onefortheroad]

Think flywheel is left hand thread?

[psychedelicropcircle]

Thank you mr yin fur the road, I have been buying up bits and pieces rubber kits stainless bolt kits other than that I will be reusing most bits again. As for the zaurst I'm unsure wot to do with it. Hope to have the engine built (standard) other than 12v in the next few weeks. Might throw it in the S1 and run it in and use for brid.

[psychedelicropcircle]

Oh and flywheel got a pulled welded on to remove it