new 5/6 plate clutch for lambrettas

[Rich_T]

Small tip, I'd stay clear of heat treating any of the steel parts.

Heat treatment is not a consistant or predicatble process. For example, if you heat treat EN36 some parts of the component will expand and others (of the same part) will contract. These are also signifcant dimensional changes that will require surface grinding to correct (on a crown wheel I found the change was 0.25mm ovality and 0.15mm shrinkage).

I don't know the spec for the pressure die cast basket. If you machine it (the basket) to make it thinner it will not be in a good place (right in the stressed area at the root of the tab cut outs). When you're down to that sort of thickness in that sort of area you really need to be using billet if it is to handle power.

Personally, the greif that some of these (heat treatment) processes caused me means that I'd up the material specification to avoid heat treatment where ever possible.

[RICSPEED]

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[rocho68]

Small tip, I'd stay clear of heat treating any of the steel parts.

Heat treatment is not a consistant or predicatble process. For example, if you heat treat EN36 some parts of the component will expand and others (of the same part) will contract. These are also signifcant dimensional changes that will require surface grinding to correct (on a crown wheel I found the change was 0.25mm ovality and 0.15mm shrinkage).

I don't know the spec for the pressure die cast basket. If you machine it (the basket) to make it thinner it will not be in a good place (right in the stressed area at the root of the tab cut outs). When you're down to that sort of thickness in that sort of area you really need to be using billet if it is to handle power.

Personally, the greif that some of these (heat treatment) processes caused me means that I'd up the material specification to avoid heat treatment where ever possible.

hi rich , the only parts for heat treatment are the spiders and bells , ive already done some work on these parts with very good results , this is only to stop the wear encountered and is proberbly overkill but im lucky to have the luxury to working for a company that has both its own lab and heat treament process so ive been testing all the parts and playing about with different specs , plus the other added bonus its free !!!!!!

[Rich_T]

Yes, if you treat only the modified lambretta spider and release plate dimensional changes won't be a problem as these parts are massively baggy to start with.

Getting pressed metal parts to run true after treatment will be fun, I remember you asking me about spiders a year or so ago, how many have you made now?

[rocho68]

Yes, if you treat only the modified lambretta spider and release plate dimensional changes won't be a problem as these parts are massively baggy to start with.

Getting pressed metal parts to run true after treatment will be fun, I remember you asking me about spiders a year or so ago, how many have you made now?

sorry im a bit confused , are you refering to me making the spider ? the spiders that are being used are the currently available ones that i mod , i could make my own spider but there is no point ,this in turn keeps the price down and keep it at the bottom end of the price market were i want it to be

[mark]

update...................
i fitted the clutch and found i had abit of dragging when i stopped at junctions with it in 1st gear and the clutch pulled in . i did some measurements and found that the brass pusher in my gp casing moved out by 1.8mm at most on a pull of clutch lever (yamaha style ).i had 3.2mm clearance to play with so i shortend my clutch arm by 10mm this gave me 3mm movement on brass bush
i then gave it a hours blast round the city centre and the A47 bypass.
the clutch now has no drag at all meaning that being the lazy b@5t@rd that i am i can now sit there with it in 1st with clutch pulled in and scoot will tick over fine .
i gave it a blast in 2nd and it pulled to 60mph(all speeds are gps'd) with no slip ,i did this numerous times. i 3rd i took it from 40mph to 73mph with no slip and banged it into 4th and chickened out at 86mph all with no sign of slip, i am running rock oil light gear oil which is a 10/30 oil designed for moto x and racing 2 strokes .
my final say is thank you lee for working all this out for me, sorry its took so long but it was worth the wait

[mark]

forgot to add its a genuine 2 finger clutch

[10 inch Terror]

I want one!

[timexit17]

I want one!

Me too: now getting to the point I will HAVE to buy something for my TS1 as it can't be dyno'd with the 5 plate super slippy in at the mo: just hope it lasts for Eire!

[soullad]

Small tip, I'd stay clear of heat treating any of the steel parts.

Heat treatment is not a consistant or predicatble process. For example, if you heat treat EN36 some parts of the component will expand and others (of the same part) will contract. These are also signifcant dimensional changes that will require surface grinding to correct (on a crown wheel I found the change was 0.25mm ovality and 0.15mm shrinkage).

I don't know the spec for the pressure die cast basket. If you machine it (the basket) to make it thinner it will not be in a good place (right in the stressed area at the root of the tab cut outs). When you're down to that sort of thickness in that sort of area you really need to be using billet if it is to handle power.

Personally, the greif that some of these (heat treatment) processes caused me means that I'd up the material specification to avoid heat treatment where ever possible.

Is this why some later Innocenti clutch parts were Cyanide treated / hardened?