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Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Sun May 13, 2012 10:10 pm
by coaster
I sympathise, I spend WAY too much time looking for stuff half way into a job, usually when I've passed the point of no return :roll:

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 12:16 pm
by Toddy
Disgraceful that garage !!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 12:27 pm
by Andy Pickering
eden wrote:Had to go to work today so haven't rewired the other stator wires and rerouted the new wire, I have put the new battery on and it all works :D As I haven't finished the "how to" video due to work I thought I would upload the "how NOT to" video :oops:
its a comedy of errors and is mostly caused by the state of my fecking garage resulting in me loosing the head.

If you have OCD it might be best if you don't watch the video, you may have a seizure :lol:

Frank Spencer with a brum accent springs to mind :frog: ..and yes that bloody garage is a disgrace young man !!! and why did you start up the gixser in between :?

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 12:35 pm
by coaster
I'm also wodering who's saddest, you for filming it or me for sitting whatching it for 25 minuts only to left dangling at the end......how did you get the fekin flywheel off????.......did you ever find your socket wrench????.......has the metal splinter festered and required amputation???? We need answers :? :?

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Mon May 14, 2012 5:04 pm
by yam-lam
whats in that metal trunk . 6 minutes in . lol :o :o

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 5:08 pm
by Muppet
use the ignition switch lights on to turn on the gauges but through a relay; keeps the current down to a minimum at the switch if a muppet can wire a relay then even you can,

muppet,

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 6:31 pm
by coaster
eden wrote:does anyone know if there is a safe way to have the ignition switch turning the gauges on when its in position 1? IE with the lights off!
Depends on your ignitio switch but I'll bet there is a lead comming out of it that has 12 volts on it with the ignition on. I've got an MB switch on mine, it's even got an 'accessory' position to the left of the on position. I have all my electrics (apart from the socket in the glove box) switched through the side lights position.

Not sure why you're concerned about connecting DC to your coil via the ignition switch though :?

And anyway, how the feck did you get that flywheel off, the suspence is killing :bouncing:

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Tue May 22, 2012 10:25 pm
by coaster
eden wrote:...What I meant was, i didnt want to send 12v dc down the green :
But it wouldn't send any voltage down the green (unless ther was a short somewhere), the green is just switched to earth when in the off position.
eden wrote:...What size fuse is everyone using????????????:
5 amps will be enough , it's less than the rating of the wiring and more than you'll be using at any one time. As for generating enough current, at the speed you ride at, over charging would be more likely :D
eden wrote:...Once I got hold of a flywheel extractor that hadn't been mentioned in the magna carta it came off easy as normal :lol:
Ah, that's a relief, I can sleep easy now ;)

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Wed May 23, 2012 11:48 pm
by byron
coaster wrote:
eden wrote:does anyone know if there is a safe way to have the ignition switch turning the gauges on when its in position 1? IE with the lights off!
Depends on your ignition switch ...
any original, Italian or Indian, or copy will have nothing connected in the first click, so there is not a way to have switched DC power with no lights on using only the ignition switch.
The ScootRS switches do, they are just a generic motorcycle ignition.

yes, relays are always a good idea to use on anything that has more current than the switches were designed to carry

Re: 12V DC CONVERSION - HOW TO

Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 5:14 pm
by rosscla
^^

That's pretty much where I am and the conclusion I came to in looking for a switched live in position 1.

Everything in the headset is live all the time but controlled by the switch. The only thing that worries me is the brake light switches. All it takes is some funny fecker with a brick or a rubber band and your battery is flattened.

I was wondering if it might be worth including a battery isolator of some description?